Having travelled all across India and 82 Country's across the Globe suddenly realized the most talked about "VALLEY OF FLOWERS" in Uttaranchal was missing from my "India Travel Portfolio". Googling the "Internet" came across various travel sites offering treks to the "VALLEY OF FLOWERS".
Longest train journey's in India.
Contacted travel group "The Searching Souls" and through "WhatsApp" got in touch with their travel booking agent Mr Shubnam . After consulting him finally confirmed my booking for the trek on Tuesday(7/6/2022) by paying a deposit of Rs 1500 .Next booked the train tickets to Haridwar and back to Mumbai, after ages travelling in common "2nd Class sleeper " compartment and experiencing rail yatra on a long journey in India. Ahoy ! Consulted Mr Bibhas.Amonkar ,our former building resident ,younger son of eminent Hindustani classical musician Late Kishori.Amonkar who introduced me to " B.N.H.S( Bombay Natural History Society)" .He is a veteran of trekking in the valley of flowers having continuously been there for 13 consequetive years being involved in research and professional photography also having had a flower exhibition at " Jehangir Art gallery" in Mumbai.He also conducts special tours in the " Valley of Flowers", a wildlife naturalist with philanthropy involvement in greening the Sahyadri mountains of Maharashtra.He advised me on the terrain and decided to buy protective knee cap pads as at my young age continuous steep incline and descent walks could be damaging to the knees.I always suffered from " Knee pain " problems which miraculously ceased after I started " Aqua Yoga" exercises in the " M.G.M.O" swimming pool on advice of fellow swimmer Mr Uday.Chandragiri, a self taught Ayurveda doctor and practitioner of yoga.Finally mentally and materialistically prepared would be embarking on my last " Mountain Trek" in the Himalaya's. Ahoy !
At " Tapri Juction" on way to Haridwar.
Wednesday(29/6/2022) Departure Mumbai :- Mumbai was undergoing one of the worst droughts for the month of June ,the driest June in 7 years since 2014 which was a drought year for entire India and hence it was not a rainy day when I left my house at Old Prabhadevi road. Boarded the " 84 Nos Bus" under a slight drizzle and alighted at Bandra under bright sunshine.Walked over the railway Bridge and at a fare of Rs 20 boarded the overloaded auto rickshaw to Bandra Terminus .Was early and boarded Train " 22917/BDTS HW Sf Exp" on platform No 2 entering compartment " S4 seat 68" for the 27 hrs journey to Haridwar.Train departure for the 1600 Km journey was prompt at 1245 hrs and along the journey whiled away my time reading online backdated issues of B.N.H.S magazine "Hornbill", with my Jio internet being excellent.Noticed that thankfully " Covid 19" was history with no passengers wearing a mask.Previously I always carried a printed paperback novel or magazines on a train journey but " Indian Railways Internet" has made common rail journey interesting and less boring. My co - passenger travelling with his kid daughter and grown up son had a pet cockrel as a pet, carried in a enclosed hamper akin to a cat.The Cock crowed quite a few times ,a deviation from the normal routine in 2nd Class travel.Absolutely no rain on the entire journey with barren plugged fields awaiting rains.On Thursday morning at approx 0615 hrs the Cockrel woke up the entire " S4" compartment ,something I was experiencing for the first time over a lifetime of train travel in India.
Lush green field of Madhya Pradesh..
Approaching Hazrat Nizamuddin Station in Delhi a passenger sitting near the train entrance door had his phone snatched ,seems to be common in Delhi as well as Mumbai.Experienced heavy rainfall at Nizamuddin Station, the longest halt of this train..The onward journey to Haridwar was through pleasing green belt of fields visible from the train and a mild continuous drizzle of rain.Was aghast to know a co- passenger in the same compartmrnt survived a pickpocket attempt.
SP Thali lunch at "Bharat Hotel" in Haridwar.
A cell phone robbery and a pick pocket attempt made me realize that along with the " Internet Smart phone era" so also crime has evolved with the times.Every long train journey over 24 hrs by " 2nd Class Sleeper" is a separate adventure by itself and so also this " Mumbai- Haridwar" marathon travel. Strangers become acquaintances and I will never forget the pet cockerel bird.
" UPPER ROAD" of Haridwar
At 1445 hrs the train was at Haridwar station. Asked directions for Devpura side of Haridwar and exited the station.Just outside the station are numerous guest houses and booked a room at " Hotel Vishu & Cloakroom" at a rental of Rs 600/ day." Room 25" was a tiny room with attached bath on the ground floor bringing back memories of Chungking Mansion in Hongkong.Forgive this Nomad for comparisons as I have lost count of hotels, lodges and ship's / Floating vessel's cabin's that I have stayed during my lifetime of employment and travels. Ahoy!
Lucknow Dharamshalah Trust.
The Nomad was at home on the travel circuit.Received a " Whats App" message from Mr Vishal.Chaudhary of " Searching Souls" regarding the " Valley of Flowers" pick up locale in Haridwar and tour itinerary.Very professional.After a fresh water bathe the Nomad hit the road with a special thali lunch at Bharat hotel costing Rs 130. Walking further up " Upper Road" it was a long walk towards " Har ki Pauri Ghat " .Came across a few Dharamshala's .
Seth Surajmal Dharamshalah on Upper Road of Haridwar.The oldest Dharamshalah in Haridwar.There are numerous Dharamshala's in Haridwar only for Hindu's. Non - Hindu's are not allowed entry.
One of the numerous Vegetarian restaurants in Haridwar
Numerous vegetarian restaurants as non vegetarian food is not allowed in Haridwar.Came across a local tourist travel agency and booked a day tour costing Rs 300 by a group tourist bus to Rishikesh.Tasted the unique " Kulfi" of Haridwar .Dry fruits are reasonably cheap as well as of excellent quality.
On the connecting walkway bridge at " HAR KI PAURI GHAT ".
Finally reached " Har ki Pauri" where the sight that greeted my eyes was awesome.Pilgrims and tourists had already arrive at 1700 hrs to attend the main Aarti ceremony that began at 1915 and lasted upto approximately 2000 hrs. Was the World and India isolated for 2 years,(1920-21) due to " Covid 19 " pandemic ? Thankfully although still prevalent in India and the Globe " Covid 19" pandemic has become controllable and curable and no more a threat to humans as in the initial stages that devastated Planet Earth.The crowd in Haridwar was a relief that life was finally normal with majority of us Indians.
View of " Bathing Ghat" at Har ki Pauri.Notice the rail's for safety of bather's.Please do not try your swimming skills in any of the bathing ghat's of the Ganga river in Haridwar as the downward flow of water from the mountains is indescribably fast flowing akin to water pressure from a pipe main.Notice the small waves and ripples
Pilgrims were bathing in the Ganga River whose gushing downhill current was to be seen and felt to be believed.
Har Ki Pauri Ghat.
Crowd arriving to attend the " Har ki Pauri Aarti" celebrations.
Preparations for conducting the " Har ki Pauri Ghat" Aarti ceremony .
There were railings and chains alongside the bathing Ghats for bathers to hold onto and hence be be prevented from being dragged by the current.
" Har Ki Pauri Ghat "Aarti ceremony in progress.
HAR KI PAURI GHAT AARTI ceremony.
The ceremony rituals finally began after 1900 hrs to a totally packed crowd of pilgrims and tourists.
" Diya's" being lit and set afloat on the Ganga River during " Har Ki Pauri Aarti" ceremony.
There was a giant T.V Screen for pilgrims to observe the rituals being conducted by the temple priests.
Religious handicraft and curio shops glittering at night.
Finally after the culmination of the " Har Ki Pauri" ceremony made my way back to the hotel from the crowded venue.The curio and religious handicraft shopa as well as the entire " UPPER ROAD" near the " Har Ki Pauri" looked unbelievably beautiful in the night.
A sea of pilgrims and tourists near "Har ki Pauri Ghat " on " Upper Road" in Haridwar.
On the way came across a restaurant having a giant size " Masala Dosa" exhibited at the entrance along with its signature " Lassi drink".
End of the evenings sightseeing tour of Haridwar with a dessert of " FRIDGE KI THANDI LASSI( Cold Lassi from the Fridge)" advertised along with one of the longest Massala Dosa's I have come across in common restaurants.
Had a taste of the famous " Fridge ka Lassi" of Haridwar served in a clay glass kept in a fridge.Absolutely delicious at only Rs 50 , something different to the Lassi drinks in Mumbai.Ahoy ! Finally arrived at my hotel room absolutely tired and relaxed for the night hoping to catch my precious 3/4 hrs sleep.Ahoy !
BIRLA GHAT named after the temple.
Friday (1/7/2022)Haridwar :- A day trip to Rishikesh as planned and at 0715 hrs boarded a rickshaw on a fare of Rs 50 to " Guda Parking" situated on the banks of the Ganges River.Enroute the driver showed me "Dam Kothi State Guesthouse" having a scenic location on the Ganges river facing Ganesh Ghat and also the biggest Akhada of the Naga Sadhu's.Breakfast was " Puri/ Bhajee" at a open - air Dhabba on the main road opposite " Guda Parking".
RISHIKESH:- The City of YOGA
. As I was early had a walk along the embankment of " Sampurnanda Ghat" situated next to " Guda Parking", the boarding point for all tourist buses.
RUDRAKSHA tree in Kankhal Haridwar.
Met a Pilgrim from Mumbai who explained me about the Ghats which stretch over a Km from " Sampurnanda Ghat". Next to " Sampurnanda Ghat" is the " Birla Ghat" named after the temple built on the opposite side of the Ghat. Rishikesh is 27 Km from Haridwar and bus boarding time was 0900 hrs .Departure of packed tourist bus was at 0915 hrs and our first stop was " Kankhal Haridwar" where we visited a temple ashram and a authentic " Rudraksha tree".From the temple ashram we headed to the main highway to Rishikesh which passes
Extreme adventure Aquatic sports in Rishikesh
through the Rajaji National Park. Next at 1130 hrs on the main highway road to Rishikesh we stopped at the " Uttarakhand Rudrakshmala Shop" where we were given a discourse on different types of Rudraksha's and its use to human health besides its religious significance to the Hindu community.
RAM JHULA bridge over River Ganga.in Rishikesh.
Came across one of the worst traffic jams due to rail track crossing closures on the narrow highway to Rishikesh.A total of two railway track crossings and our bus was literally crawling. Most hill station highways are narrow but Rishikesh,- Haridwar highway is definitely one of the worst although a mere distance of 28 Kms. Is a nightmare.
Awesome " Ram Jhula" bridge
Finally arrived on the outskirts of Rishikesh and after driving up the mountain alighted the bus at a cross road junction.The bus would be parked some distance away while we walked into Rishikesh city.Came across a crew washing their raft as white water rafting was closed. Memories of sailing flashed back and took a photo hoping down the raft.Rishikesh is more green and has a different ambiance in comparison to Haridwar. Crossed the scenic " Ram Jhula Bridge" and rest of the group visited the temple's.
Temple across " Ram Jhula Bridge ".
In fact Rishikesh akin to Haridwar is a temple city and famous Worlwide as the centre of " YOGA" in India as also extreme adventure sports. Lunch was at " Darpan Restaurant" next to iconic " Chotiwala Restaurant " on Sargam ashram road .
Spotted this extreme adventure sports crew servicing their " White Water Raft's" and was filled with nostalgia of my employment of 23 years in the " Merchant Navy" as a " Marine Engineer".
At my " Young Age" have seen it, done it and experienced everything in " Extreme Adventure Sports" permissible for civilians. Would have loved to do " White Water Rafting" just for nostalgia but water sport's was closed and hence maintenance work for the crew.
Tourist Mr Saini gives a lift.
At 1500 hrs decided to return back to " Khara Bus parking". Providence came to my rescue and on Ram Jhula bridge a young tourist from Mumbai gave me a lift on his scooter.Walked the final distance to " Khara Bus Parking" as the auto rickshaw quoted Rs 150 for the same and hence the forced walk.A practice walk as from tomorrow it will be nothing but walking with the start of " Valley of Flowers trek".
Rishikesh , the abode of peace.
I have paid my homage to the city of Rishikesh, considered the centre of Yoga as it was " AQUA YOGA" that cured me from a reoccurring leg problem since my middle age years.I excel at swimming, a sport Iearnt late in life akin to motorcycling and just a casual suggestion by a much senior swimming acquaintance Mr Uday.Chandragiri at the " M.G.M.O" pool in Mumbai made me specialize on my backfloat stretching exercises while also altering my diet and the rest is medical history.
Anandamajee Temple in Kankhal Haridwar
At 1615 hrs we left Rishikesh for our journey back to Haridwar.A excellent day outing in the "Yoga Capital" of India.On approaching Haridwar we had a stoppage for pilgrims to visit another two temples. Finally at 1815 hrs we left for Haridwar with the last stop being " Har ki Pauri" Ghat . Had to walk all the way to my hotel from "Har ki Pauri" Ghat , a indirect forced leg exercise for my " Valley of Flowers" trek that begins from tomorrow.
Long 274 Km drive from Haridwar to Joshimath.A view of RISHIKESH as seen while driving up the mountains at 0715 hrs. Beautiful view of the Yoga Capital of India.
Mountainious Himalayan drive to Joshimath .
Saturday(2/7/2022):- Left Haridwar at 0600 hrs for the 276 Km road journey to Joshimath finally reaching Joshimath at approximately 1800 hrs with stopovers for breakfast and lunch.A day long journey of a drive on the mountains that began with the ascent from Rishikesh finally terminating in Joshimath.
A drive along the mountains admiring the natural beauty of the Himalaya's as well as the housing and lifestyle of the people living in the Garhwal region .
View from " Hotel Jyoti" in Joshimath.Scenic
On the way there was a landslide and hence route diverted taking us extra travel time.On the way at Devprayag had a stopover to observe the confluence of two rivers, the Bhagirathi river joining the Alaknanda river where there is a distinct colour difference akin to salt and pepper. These two rivers meet together at Devprayag to finally form the Ganga river. Amazing. Noticed that cultivation of various crops through terrace farming on the mountain sides was common in the Garhwal mountain range of the Himalaya's. Driving past Rudraprayag we stopped for lunch at " Naini Restaurant " and having been brought up on Natural History book's thanks to school/ personal library and later " B.N.H.S" was reminded of the " Maneater of Rudraprayag" written by Hunter/ Naturalist Jim.Corbett. Hoped to visit the spot where the leopard was shot on our return journey.We were a total of 5 trekkers staying at " Hotel Jyoti" in Joshimath with me being the " BACHELOR GRANDFATHER ? " Among us 5 trekkers Mr Sudip.Roy from Kolkota at age 32 was the eldest of the group of four while Mr Sourav.Goel from Bangalore at 31 years was the only married person amongst us .He was also a active hobbyist trekker/ Marathoner while rest of the two young bachelor's Rohan.Buchhada from Mumbai and Tirthankar.Nandiroy from Dehradun were in their twenties. Ahoy !
View of main street in Joshimath
Don't the Japanese scale Mt Everest in their 70's let alone 80's ? If I failed could say at least I tried . Excellent " WIFI INTERNET" all along our travel route and hoped to get some network once we began our Himalayan Trek with " THE SEARCHING SOULS " Trek company to " VALLEY OF FLOWERS" and " HEMKUND SAHIB" .We checked into our hotel room's with Sourav.Goel and Subit.Roy being allotted room "No 112" while Rohan.Buchhada,Tirthankar.Nandiroy, and myself allotted " Room No 111", next door to room " No 112". The owners of "Jyoti Hotel" stayed in a bungalow which seems to have been the original building extended into a hotel by adding a few floors to a extended building structure.Looking around from the Hotel terrace noticed that almost every small building had a side business of running a lodge or homestay. Later we assembled on the terrace and were offered tea and biscuits.Next the Co-ordinator of " The Searching Souls" Mr Suraj.Rawat gave us a briefing on rules and regulation also asking us to sign a Indemnity clause not holding the company responsible in case of a mishap, typical of all " Extreme Adventure Sports " companies. Old wine in New bottle .As a young teenager residing in Byculla in the 1970's the first time I got a idea of Himalayan mountaineering was through a resident Mr Prabhakar.Shetty, a avid mountaineer much senior to me who narrated us kid's stories of his mountaineering treks.At that stage in my life parent's " POCKET MONEY " was my handicap and now here at last at the young age of 62 years and a self made entrepreneur with a "AGE HANDICAP" would be experiencing my first "Himalayan Trek". " Better Late than too late". Ahoy !
Finally in Joshimath,"Gateway to Himalaya's"
Next , guide Mr Yogendra. Joshi instructed us about proper equipment for trekking and the importance of acclimatization. I took a pair of authentic "Trekking Shoes" from them at a rental of Rs 500 for the entire trek. Headed into the small city of Joshimath situated at a altitude of 6150 ft and the Gateway to Himalayan mountain expeditions and pilgrimage locale's."Jyoti Hotel" is situated next to the landmark " Joshimath Police Station" and Joshimath Cantonment is one of India's most important army military station as it is closest to the Indo- Tibetan border of China. During the 2013 Kedarnath floods this army cantonment was the base camp for rescue of flood victims.
Trek Co-ordinator Mr Suraj.Rawat.
The Ropeway for skiing tourists wanting to visit Auli for winter sports was in close proximity to our hotel.A launching point for pilgrimage locales in the Himalaya's during summer and winter sports for tourists during winter season.Dinner was vegetarian thali and returning to my room realized my rain jacket was missing and after much search commotion found it in the car thanks to Guide Mr Joshi and Co- ordinator Mr Rawat. We all are mortal humans and majority of the human species are scared of succumbing to " Accidents"," Heart Attacks", " Cancer" and " Diabetes" while for me its none of the above but " Alzheimer's" as I am pathologically absent-minded and hope to solve the problem akin to my " Knee joints" chronic pain with " Aqua Yoga " otherwise post 70+ age akin to " Investment Planning" should plan for a sanitorium if I live that long. Ahoy !
Breakfast at "Jyoti Hotel" R-L :- Mr Rohan.Buchhada,Mr Sourav.Goel, Mr Tirthankar.Nandiroy,Mr Sudip.Roy and your's truly " The Narrator".
Strange, in other matters I am not absent-minded otherwise would have been a wreck managing my financial and personal itinerary without any assistance, a one man " Pvt Unlimited Company". Ahoy ! Later after a hot water bathe went to bed with the ambient temp being akin to Mumbai and definitely not freezing cold or even requiring to wear a shirt.It rained at night and the weather became cooler akin to a controlled A/c environment, nature at its best.
At Govindghat:- Ready, set go!
Sunday(3/7/2022) Joshimath :- Awesome morning and pleasant natural A/C weather with clouds engulfing the mountain's.It had rained in the night and weather was akin to Mumbai city in
winter with mountains replacing the concrete skyscraper mountains of Mumbai.After breakfast we left for Govindghat , a 20 Km drive through bumpy narrow mountain roads
At Pulna Taxi stand.Start of Trek.
.River Alaknanda flows through Govindghat. At 0915 hrs reached Govindghat situated at a altitude of 1800m (6000 Ft). .Bright and Sunny weather.A family of 4 trekkers also joined the group and hence a delay in start of the trek from base camp " GOVINDGHAT".Boarded another taxi from Govindghat to Pulna, crossing River Alaknanda bridge, a total distance of 4 Kms.Our walking trek began from Pulna and to me it was a real difficult Trek.Ghangaria is situated at a altitude of 3,049 m(10,003 ft) and hence a total uphill trek from Pulna village.
Route to Ghangaria.
The Himalaya's are different from the Sahyadri mountains of Maharashtra and unlike trekking up to the peak of a hill fort here it was endless uphill and downhill walking and that too 10 Kms. After doing approximately 1.5 Kms of trekking told our guide Mr Joshi to get me a pony. Hence at a cost of Rs 2000 hired a pony and continued my onward trek on a mare to Ghangaria. Honestly i was enjoying my pony riding and wonder if there were any bettors on me . Ahoy !
10 Km Pony Mountain ride from Pulna to Ghangaria.Something different compared to a normal horse ride.
For the first time in my life rode a mule/ pony on uneven surfaces and developed a respect to these most neglected of pack animals without which most of our human artificial ingenuity would be useless.
Pony/ Mules as Mountain transport.
The only transport from Govindghat to Ghangaria is either by walking, human porters, mules/ pony's or helicopter.The helicopter ride from Govindghat to Pulna takes approximately 5 minutes and costs Rs 3000. Your choice depending on your budget and enthusiasm. As for me I enjoyed the dangerous pony ride where a slight slip of the animals feet could be a disaster for both of us. The pony handler showed me the locale where a entire section of the pathway along with shops was swept away during the 2013 Kedarnath floods .Entire Govindghat car parking where we alighted and boarded another vehicle was washed away in the 2013 Kedarnath flood disaster.
Scenic Himalayan trek to Ghangaria
A new land route was created on the opposite bank of the Alaknanda river after the original pathway was destroyed.Packed lunch was at the river crossing bridge of Alaknanda river which had a overbridge. After lunch it was a steep inclined uphill walk towards Ghangaria and the pony's surefootedness amazed me as also kept me alert for any mishap.
Manual porter's carrying luggage.
Falling on a flat racecourse ground or even ground was safer than a fall on this uneven ground of stones, gravel and muck.It had rained heavily just a few days back and many pilgrims/ tourists got stranded.We were lucky today as it was a bright and clear day with not a drizzle let alone a passing shower.Midway approaching the final leg of my " Pony Trek" had to change pony's and the final 2 Kms of the trek was on a different pony.
Bridge across the Alaknanda river.Rest stop for pilgrims and tourists with Dhabba's selling at very exorbitant rates.From here it is a very steep upward mountain trek towards Ghangaria village. Clouds can be seen covering the mountain top. Beautiful.
Finally at approximately 1400 hrs reached Ghangaria and was dropped near the Gurudwara Sri Gobind Dham.
Gushing flow of Alaknanda river.
Whiled away my time outside a restaurant happy that " Jio Internet" was available while waiting for the rest of the trekking group to arrive on foot. Mr Sourav.Goel was the first to reach Ghangaria on foot taking approximately 5 hrs to complete the trek carrying 8 kgs of backpack load, a marathon runner who at age 31 was in the pique of fitness.
Gobind Dham Gurudwara in Ghangaria.
Has the ageless Marathoner/Model /actor Milind.Soman ever throught of running from Pulna to either Hemkund Sahib or Valley of Flowers ? We walked to " Hemlok Hotel and restaurant" situated just opposite the Gurudwara Sri Gobind Dham. We were allotted " Room No 105", three to a room.
Mule's on transport hire.
Finally all the group members arrived and the average time to complete the trek by a healthy young trekker would be 5-6 hrs according to my estimation. The weather change between Govindghat and Ghangaria was abrupt and from being almost bare chested in Joshimath over here in Ghangaria for the first time wore a sweater .Akin to " Aqua Yoga" did the Nordic therapy of having a bathe in ice cold water although the tap water at our hotel was cold but not freezing.
Finally in Ghangaria village.
Akin to a Naga Sadhu I had a chill cold bathe that instantly acclimatized me to the cold ambient temp of Ghangaria. Later ventured out into the narrow one-mule/ pony town of Ghangaria and got a feel of mountain village lifestyle. The " Valley of Flowers" museum was closed and inquired the hire charges of mule for the return journey.Tea was at 1730 hrs in the hotel and during a group discussion along with the family of 4 tourists was surprised they travelled to exotic locales around the Globe and not just the common " Tourist Route's".
Ghangaria Village situated at a elevation of 3,050 meters(10,006ft) above sea level on the confluence of River Pushpawati coming from "Valley of Flowers" and River Lakhshman Ganga(Hemganga) coming from Hemkund Sahib.These two rivers join together and form the River Alaknanda that flows through Govindghat. Ghangaria village is the last human settlement in the Bhyundar Valley. Covered with thick blanket of snow between December-April this tiny village is closed during winter.
Dinner was at 1930 hrs and the carnivore in me was getting accustomed to vegetarian food.
Narrow street of Ghangaria village
After dinner just ventured out of the hotel and to my amazement saw a bare bodied Sikh being given a massage outside Sri Gobind Dham Gurudwara in almost freezing cold. Here I was with a shirt/ sweater/ raincoat still feeling cold while this young man was enjoying the cold absolutely bare bodied. Ahoy ! As usual did get my 3+ hrs sleep and could hear raindrops on the roof. Seems our trek to " Valley of Flowers" would be on a wet day.
In the "VALLEY OF FLOWERS".Not a sight of the "Lady Slipper Orchid Flower" supposed to bloom during the month of July. Just a few scattered small flowering plants.
"Valley of Flowers" ticket office.
Monday(4/7/2022)Ghangaria:- As usual after my 34 hrs sleep was awake blogging and on arrival of dawn after normal toilet routines was happy to find a clear morning sky.The overnight rain had stopped and the weather was chill cold.Breakfast was porridge and young Co- trekker Mr Rohan.Buchhada was suffering from dysentery but after a bit of advice decided to do the trek. At 0715 hrs we left the hotel and it was a uphill walk towards the " Valley of Flowers" entrance gate that opens at 0700 hrs and closes at 1200 hrs..
Start of Trek to " Valley of Flowers"
There are two road bifurcation's near a check post with one road leading to " Hemkund Sahib" Gurudwara and the other road to the " Valley of Flowers". Guide Mr Yogendra.Joshi was our group leader along with two other guide's. At the ticket issuing booth we had to hand over our " Aadhar card" for registration .
View of Himalaya's on "Valley of Flowers" trek
Finally after the registration formalities we finally entered the National Park of " Valley of Flowers".After a short walk along rough stones we heard the thundering roar of the gushing water of the Pushpawati River.Came across the first flower ," The Blue Poppy" where a nameplate was placed indicating the locale of this particular species of flower.The suspense had set in as also the incentive for the torturous mountain trek to the "Valley of Flowers". The view of the mountains and the sound of the gushing Pushpawati river was a out of the world feeling.
Crossing Pushpawati river bridge.
Crossed the bridge and after a long walk began the endless ascent up the mountain .Guide Mr Rajan.Rawat was along with me and Rohan , the laggard's of the trek group.I was reminded of late boxer Muhammed Ali's immortal words on ageing and retirement from a profession, quote," I am at a stage in my life where the mind says yes but the body says no". I never thought I would be trekking up mountains or hills again and here I was torturing my human physical limits on this trek expedition.
" A thing of Beauty is a joy forever" .Trekking in " Valley of flowers" came across some unique beautiful flowers.
A walk in " Valley of Flowers".
Legs were aching and I was breathless after walking just a few meters.Seems swimming 1 Km/ day and cycling daily in Mumbai is not fitness requirement for " HIMALAYAN HILL/ MOUNTAIN" trekking, a different ball game where youth and practice plays a key role. I think it was my firm will power and also physical fitness that kept me walking at a very slow pace. As the day progressed the Sun shone brighter but it was not hot.
Flowers along the trek path.
Took off my raincoat and walked normally akin to the numerous hill fort treks I had done in the Sahyadri mountains of my home State of Maharashtra. As we reached the summit of the mountain the view of the melting glaciers was the aphrodisiac that kept me walking.All along our walk could hear the gushing water of the stream flowing alongside the mountain.Came across numerous trekker's and realized I was the eldest among trekker's today.
A GREEN CARPET IN VALLEY OF FLOWERS.Normally this entire meadow is covered with different exotic flowers.Seems the peak flowering month is in August/ September which also coincides with heavy monsoon ."Gambler's Luck" is required to be in the right season in this indescribably beautiful valley to spot the carpet of flower's.We were lucky to have unbelievably bright sunshine weather throuout our trek in this valley.
Finally after climbing partially towards the summit it was again a downhill walk into the valley which later turned into a slightly zig-zag up down walk.Rohan and myself took a break where I had some snacks. After our short stoppage again started walking where we came across young Guide Rajan who then stayed with me through the trek.
Some of the few exotic flowers I spotted.
We finally reached the "VALLEY OF FLOWERS" nestled in the Pushpawati river valley which to my disappointment was just a green meadow akin to a beautiful manicured lawn and not a meadow of a array of exotic flowers as shown in pictures in different magazines or travelogue blogs. A ant-iclimax .
Co-Trekker Marathoner Mr Sourav.Goel who was way ahead of rest of the group trekked solo a extra 4 Kms deeper into the "Valley of Flowers" where he met some local trekkers and came across this awesome mountain postercard scenery. A glacier mountain blending with a flowing river down the valley.Notice that there is no carpet of flowering plants but just green alpine grass. It was the trek amongst indescribable beautiful Himalayan mountain landscape that makes "VALLEY OF FLOWERS" a trek to remember.
The "Valley of Flowers" situated between altitudes of 3352 m(10,997 ft) and 3658 m( 12,000ft) above sea level lies completely in the temperate Alpine zone and was officially accidentally discovered in 1931by three Britisher mountaineers Mr Frank.S.Smythe, Mr Eric.Shipton and Mr R.L.Holdsworth. While returning from a successful expedition to Mt Kamet they had lost their way and walked into this valley of flowers. Frank.S.Smythe later authored a book,"Valley of Flowers" and seems "LUCK(PROVIDENCE) also favoured them for if they were in our shoes on this particular day in 2022 then the "Valley of Flowers" would not have been discovered as it resembled a ordinary green Golf course meadow. Ahoy !
Crossing a gushing stream.
Seems we were at the right place at the wrong time and the mass blooming of flowers was yet to begin with the peak months being August/ September which is also heavy monsoon season in this locale of the Garhwal mountains.The "Valley of Flowers" has a total area of 87 Sq Km with a length of approximately 8 Km and width of 2 Km which in 1982 was declared a "National Park" also becoming a primary zone of the Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve.In 2004 the valley became a part of the UNESCO World Network of Biosphere Reserves and is open to the common public between the months of June to September during the Monsoon season.Over 650 different species of flowers have been tabulated in the "Valley of Flowers" over various months of the Monsoon season. Rest of the months during winter the valley lies in a carpet of snow and hence closed to tourism. The thrill was in the trek and admiring nature and at last one of my ambitions of trekking in the Himalaya's was fulfilled. We crossed a stream and went upto the sign board of " Valley of Flowers" spotting the few tiny flowers that were blooming in the vicinity but the entire valley being just a green carpet.Our building apartment garden in concrete jungle Mumbai had a larger number of flowers on this particular day of our visit to "Valley of Flowers".There is a legend that a flower called "BRAHMA KAMAL" blossoms here after every 12 years and was hoping to sight the same. In 1939 a Botanist Joan Margaret Legge deputed by the Royal Botanical Gardens of Kew had arrived in "Valley of Flowers" to study flowers and while negotiating a mountain slope slipped and fell to her death.Her sister visited the spot and later erected a grave on that site which today is visited by trekker's to the valley.
Sheet Metal Bridge.
.Quenched my thirst at a glacier water stream which had a pipe connection also refilling my bottle. Its during trek's that a person appreciates the value of water. Finally after a brief stop in the valley of flowers decided to head back home. Had walked 5 Kms to this spot and now it was another 5 Kms walk back home to Ghangaria.Came across a unique tree that sheds its bark akin to paper sheets and the same sheets in primitive times were used by the locals as writing paper. On our way back stopped for lunch and checked my phone internet surprised that " Jio Wifi" was excellent in the National Park as I presumed Internet/ phone facilities would be non available in the mountain locales of the Garhwal region of Uttaranchal. Entire India is now covered by " Internet" through different service providers with " Jio" dominating the market.
Wild flowers.
Guide Rajan was familiar with the local porters and guides and during a conversation with a manual porter was amazed to know this young Nepali origin porter was in the profession for 10 years, daily carrying luggage or tourists in his Basket on his back.He told me he could carry 70 Kgs up and down this mountain trek and was amazed at his strength and sure footedness akin to the mule/ pony's.
" You Don't bring me flowers in July". A barren landscape of mostly grass vegetation with very few flowers in the locale of " VALLEY OF FLOWERS".August/ September are peak flowering months and this same green meadow would be a kaleidoscope of different flowers.
I wonder upto what age his body would allow him to continue in his profession as a " Mountain Porter" and after that what ? Travel educates.
Himalayan Glacier water free of cost
It was a torturous descent down the mountain and on the way came across a landslide area and shudder to think if it happened while we were trekking in the mountains.Unlike the Sahyadri hill forts of Maharashtra which has more of gravel and mud here it was large stones as a pathway with a great strain on the knee cap's. Honestly just the beauty of the Himalaya's and my decades of sporting fitness regime kept me from calling for " Porter(Doli)" assistance for descending down the mountain.
Bark of tree used as paper .
Finally at 1330 hrs we reached the " Ticket office" where every trekker has to report the fact that he or she has made a exit from" The Valley of Flowers".Youngest of trekker's Tirthankar was the first to be back home in the hotel room and seems he had a short nap in the valley. Tirthankar was a unique person who could fall asleep any time and at any place, something I wish could happen to me .A cure for my 3/4 hrs insomniac sleep habits.
Endless streams along the trek
Finally all Trekkers were home with Sourav having trekked 4 Kms extra into the " Valley of Flowers" upto a mountain glacier along with some local trekkers ,clicking some amazing photo's with the mountain as a backdrop. He is a self taught Yoga student and a fitness athlete.Strangely ,he didn't have the slim physique of a long distance runner being stocky in built. Look's can be deceptive. Ahoy !
Tea at the hotel.
The hotel was " Housefull" with a group of newly arrived young trekker's.Guide Yogendra.Joshi explained us about the Himalayan bear menace in Ghangaria where at nights bears would come into the town to forage for left over food. Tea was served at 1730 hrs and dinner at 2000 hrs.The hotel packed with trekkers resembling a social gathering.
Trek by mule to Hemkund Sahib Gurudwara , the highest elevation gurudwara in the world.
Start of 6 Km Hemkund Sahib trek.
Tuesday(5/7/2022) Ghangaria:- A slightly warmer night as it had not rained .As usual after breakfast got ready for the Hemkund Sahib Gurudwara trek.There was slight continuous drizzle and hence had to put on my raincoat.Sudip.Roy and myself had decided to hire mules while the other three trekkers would trek on foot.
Garhwal range of Himalaya's
In the drizzle we walked upto " MULE/ PONY TAXI POINT" just a few meters uphill walk from the hotel. Akin to" Taxi/ Auto Unions" in city's so also Ghangaria has a " Mule/ Pony Union" where prices for rides are fixed .Tour guide Mr Ambik.Rawat arranged for the trekking mules. Ambik can do the trek to Hemkund Sahib by foot in a average of 2 hrs. Amazing.Sudip and myself hired Mules costing each of us Rs 2500 for the up/ down fare to Hemkund Sahib and back to Ghangaria .The mule trek to Hemkund Sahib began at 0745 and it was a steady uphill walk for the Mules on treacherous large stone stairs.
" Mule Transport" on a horrible road.
It was a beautiful morning with a slight drizzle and cold weather. Unlike the " Valley of flowers" trek route which is through forest pathways the " Hemkund Sahib" trek route is a 1,100m(3600ft) climb of 6 Km through a series of rock stairs, slippery and broken in parts .A trekker should be as sure footed as a mule walking up this mountain trek of large stone stairs. The quote " Sure footed as a mule" is apt to this beast that navigates through obstacles so easily that to me it seemed unbelievable until I experienced it for the first time in my life as a passenger with my life depending on it.
Permanent Glacier on Hemkund Sahib route.
My respect for the pack mule/ pony has increased by leaps and bounds after seeing their efficiency as transport carriers. If the camel is the ship of the desert than the mule is the ropeway of the mountain's.The view of the snow capped mountains was beautiful and our first rest stop at 0840 hrs was at a Dhabba. The Mules get their brief rest after negotiating the treacherous terrain which is their routine job.
Hemkund Sahib Gurudwara with the Glacial lake in front of the Gurudwara complex.This present day Gurudwara was constructed during the mid 1960's in stages and is considered a marvel of design and construction having withstood the elements of weather over the decades.Notice the clarity of the water with the bottom rocks clearly visible.
After a brief rest at the Dhabba began our ascent and passed alongside the glacier on the mountainside which I first mistook to be rough cemented concrete.
Dip in ice cold Glacial lake of Hemkund Sahib
Finally at 0945 hrs we reached Hemkund Sahib Gurudwara situated on the peak of the mountain.We told the mule handler would be back by 1100 hrs and headed towards the unimposing small Gurudwara.I say unimposing having visited the Golden temple in Amritsar and presumed that the highest Gurudwara in the world would be a colossal imposing structure.Hemkund Sahib Gurudwara is dedicated to the tenth Sikh Guru, Guru Gobind Singh(1666-1708) and located at a elevation of 4,632m(13,650 ft).On entering the precincts of the Gurudwara compound was given a scarf to cover my head .
Melting glacier into Hemkund Sahib lake.
Went to the glacier lake and it's beauty against the backdrop of the Gurudwara and Glacier mountains was indescribable in the bright hot sunshine.Hemkund Sahib and its glacier lake situated at a elevation of 4633 meters(13650 ft ) is surrounded by seven mountain peaks each mountain having a " Nishan Sahib" on its cliff. During winter months from October to April Hemkund Sahib is inaccessible due to the frozen route and in May Sikh pilgrims gradually clear the trek pathway, a social service called "Kar Seva" in Sikhism. Pilgrims were having a dip in the ice cold glacier lake .Tourists are allowed to take a dip and hence decided to immerse myself in ice cold water and the experience was totally different as not everyday can a person have a dip in a authentic glacier lake.
Trekker Sourav & Self at Hemkund Sahib.
Was surprised to see Marathoner Sourav.Goel enter the glacier lake premises, unbelievably quick to have reached the peak by walking which in his case could be a jog. After the Ice cold glacier dip came out of the Gurudwara complex .Strolled along the small edge of the mountain just admiring the beauty of my natural surroundings."Mountain Sickness" is a common ailment at this altitude and medical study has shown that almost 1/3rd of pilgrims/tourists who visit Hemkund Sahib suffer from "Acute Mountain Sickness".
Standing on edge of Himalaya's at Hemkund Sahib
Met Subit.Roy who had visited the Gurudwara and at 1100 hrs we mounted our Mules and headed back to base while Sourav hurried down the pathway hoping to reach faster than us.Staying overnight at Hemkund Sahib is not allowed and hence all tourists and pilgrims have to leave Hemkund Sahib by 1400 hrs for the trek back to base village Ghangaria. The descent was terrible and was amazed in the manner the mules negotiated the large stones maintaining their safety as well as safety of their human work load. Weather changes abruptly in the mountains and from bright hot sunshine our descent was partly through a thick cloud of fog.Stopped at the rest Dhabba where I ate a little of my packed lunch. On the descent , the ride was akin to a " Bronco rodeo" ride seen on National Geographic and had to maintain balance on the mule for a slip by the animal would mean disaster for human and animal.
End of Mule trek to Hemkund Sahib.
For the first time saw a woman about 60+ kilo's in weight being carried in a basket by a porter and i wonder what's the secret of the " Basket Porter's" ability to carry such weights over a elevation of 3600 ft on uneven land surface.
Rs13000 for Palki hire to Hemkund Sahib
On nearing Ghangaria was astonished to see the familiar face of none other than Sourav.Goel.He completed the descent in 1 hr 50 minutes while his ascent was 2 hr 40 mins. Finally at 1245 hrs we reached " Pony/ Mule Taxi point" and after paying the handler Rs 2500 and taking a photo with " Kamala" my mule we headed to our hotel.Bright hot sunshine weather.Weather changed abruptly in the evening with cloudy sky and it rained at night.
At Mana, India's last border village only 26 Kms from the China-Tibetan border. Sipping tea at a shop. All the shops have this signboard and pilgrim's visiting Badrinath also visit Mana which is developing into a tourist resort.
Cold Morning in Ghangaria in front of hotel.
Wednesday(6/7/2022) Ghangaria- Kulna- Badrinath- Joshimath :- A normal cold morning with temp ranging from 5-10*C. Mountains covered in morning mist.Awesome natural beauty of the Garhwal region of Ghangaria.Had a early morning stroll outside my hotel near the Sikh Gurudwara. Porters were in queue for their pilgrimage business. Breakfast was at 0630 hrs and later at 0730 hrs my other young co- trekkers left for the long 10 Kms trek to Kulna.
Elderly lady on Palki to Hemkund Sahib
Spotted a old lady being carried by a Palki to Hemkund Sahib.Four sturdy young porters were carrying the Palki.The cost could be a maximum of Rs 13 000. Finally at 0815hrs hired a mule outside my hotel @ Rs 1300 for the ride and began my long 10 Km trek from Ghangaria to Pulna.
Mule Express :-To Pulna on Mule "Champa".
The pony handler had another mule tethered to the lead mule and just before exiting Ghangaria he got another customer, a elderly Sikh lady .A elderly Sikh couple hired the pony with the wife doing the trek by pony while husband walked the distance. Pony rides are expensive and in fact I had spent almost the equivalent of a airfare on my pony rides to Hemkund Sahib and back , Pulna to Ghangaria and now back to Pulna.
" Mule/Pony Mileage " akin to airfare
A total pony fare of Rs 5800! Money well spent as i love horses and would have even joined the " Amateur Riders club" if younger as i now travel a lot and membership would be expensive and a waste if not utilized through my "RETIREMENT AGE ENTREPRENEURSHIP ALLOWANCE". No reason to " Show off " elite club membership . Wish they gave " Mule/ Pony mileage" concessions akin to " Air Travel mileage" to regular mule riders.
"Ghangaria Helipad".
Weather was in our favour and it was a pleasant ride through treacherous road and a steep descent as we were going from higher to lower altitude. Having arrived at Ghangaria on pony I was familiar with the return trip and was enjoying my half marathon mule trek , a crash course in the art of mountain riding.We passed along the " Helipad Campsite" where helicopters landed and took off at frequent intervals.
" Mule Express" arrives at Pulna village
Cost of a 5 minutes helicopter ride was Rs 3000/ person from Ghangaria to Govindghat and vice versa, slightly expensive than the mule/ pony ride fare.Honestly as a horseman I would always prefer a mule/ pony ride to the helicopter ride as it's a different experience riding a mule/ horse on a rugged and uneven mountain pathway. A ride akin to a extreme adventure sport. Ahoy !
Pulna to Govindghat by Taxi.
My mule " Champa", a Grey mare was the lead mule and now almost a expert on mule handling and riding was amazed at the herd intelligence of this pack animal akin to race horses on whose study as a " Punter" could have achieved a PhD .At times the handler would let the mule walk by itself with me having no control on the reins in order to attend to the lady riding the tethered mule behind me as at times she was uncomfortable and scared. During these short breaks it never went astray or do a about turn knowing it's designated duty and route akin, to a racehorse completing a race after dropping a jockey. Training and herd mentality of the racehorse and mountain mule / pony was similar although for different purposes.
Govindghat to Mana by road.
This mule that seemed above average as a work mule cost Rs 1.5 lacs and was also used for ferrying Kedarnath pilgrims.My co- trekker , the elderly lady was having problems riding the mule complaining of back ache, a common problem in horse riding let alone riding a mule on one of the worst dirt mountain trek routes.No wonder there was a helicopter service as riding a mule is not everyone's cup of tea especially descent rides on a uneven mountain pathway.
At Mana, the " Last Indian Village "
Finally after the brief rest stopover made the final last leg of the mule trek to Pulna.On the way received a phone call from Sourav inquiring about my location as they had reached almost a hour ago, descent being less tiring for trekking on foot. Finally at 1100 hrs my last mule trek in the Himalaya's had come to a end.
Bhim Pul in Mana.
Expensive but a education and crash course on " Mule/ Pony mountain riding" something different than normal leisure pony or horse rides on flat even surfaces. I had trekked a total of 32 kms on a pony/ mule, and understood the rigours of long distance horse riding and steeplechase.From Pulna we boarded the taxi to Govindghat the now familiar route. At Govindghat we hired a taxi to visit the pilgrimage town of Badrinath and also the tourist village Mana nicknamed the " Last village in India" at a rental of Rs 2500 for the tour and back to Joshimath.
At Bhim Pul in Mana
It was a 30 Kms drive through a beautiful mountainous road and came across landslide clearings, a very treacherous route during the monsoon season.Passed alongside the "Jaypee Vishnuprayag Hydro-electric plant" built across the Alaknanda river in 2006 which has a underground power station.. The beauty of the Himalaya's is to be seen rather than described in print or photography. I personally feel that if you are a genuine traveller than a visit to the Himalaya's is mandatory travel itinerary during your lifetime, better when young. At 1230 hrs we entered Mana village which had a huge welcome board with the signature advertisement as " Last Indian Village ". The Uttarakhand State Government has designated Mana as a "Tourism Village".Mana is a mere 26 Kms from the China-Tibet border and the locals are called Bhotias,of presumed Tibetan heritage.
Vyas Gufa in Mana.
Co- Trekker Mr Sudip.Roy was familiar with this route having visited Mana and Badrinath before and hence guided us through this small exotic Indian Village or so called " Last Indian village ".From the car park it was a uphill walk towards " Bhim Pul( Bhim Falls)" and " Saraswati Dham( Saraswati river)".Very scenic locale and the narrow pathway had numerous Bhotia shop owners selling shawls and local handicrafts.
Bhotiya lady in Mana selling Wollen's
Most of the shops had their exteriors decorated in religious Hindu mythological murals.The sight of water gushing out of a rock cave at " Bhim Pol" was awesome, the source of the Saraswati river.There is a viewpoint just opposite to " Bhim Pol" where the viewer gets a panoramic view of the Saraswati river against a backdrop of the mighty Himalaya's.
Hindu mythological murals on building wall in Mana.Lord Ganesh dictating the "Mahabaratha" to Ved Vyas inside Ganesh Gufa. Photo :- Co-Trekker Mr Rohan.Buchhada.
We had some " Bhajiya's/ Tea" at a restaurant with the common signboard " Last Indian Village".
Ganesh Gufa in Mana
After viewing the Saraswati river and Bhim Pol we trekked further up the mountain to visit " Vyas Gufa( Vyas Cave)".On the way came across a Bhotiya shawl/ handicraft shop where Sourav, Rohan and myself purchased some products from the Bhotiya lady.Entire Garhwal region of Uttaranchal is a seat of Hinduism culture and religion and " Vyas Gufa" is a cave temple.It is believed that Ved Vyas composed the four Veda's while living in Vyas Gufa and its roof resembles pages from the Holy books.There is a 5000 years old shrine dedicated to Ved Vyas inside this cave.All my co- trekkers being Hindu's visited " Vyas Gufa" while I just took photo's from the exterior.
Significance of Ganesh Gufa(Cave)
Our next visit was to " Ganesh Gufa( Ganesh Cave)" situated a short downhill walking distance from " Vyas Gufa".It is believed that Lord Ganesh dictated the "Mahabaratha" to Ved Vyas inside this cave.Mana is a trekker's paradise and there are numerous mountain trek routes that begin from Mana. After the visit to " Ganesh Gufa" we headed back to the car park and made our exit from India's last village, Mana.is only 4.5 Kms away from one of the holiest Hindu pilgrimage shrines, Badrinath.At approximately 1430 hrs we reached Badrinath town and lunch was at " Sardeswari Restaurant ", one of the best restaurants in this pilgrimage town. Lunch was " Cholle Batture/ Sweet lassi" and after lunch made the short downhill walk towards Badrinath Temple.
Mural painted houses in Mana
Badrinath Temple situated at a altitude of 3,133 m(10,279 ft) is dedicated to Lord Vishnu and situated on the banks of the Alaknanda river. The temple is open for six months of the year between end of April and beginning of November due to extreme weather condition of snowfall in the Himalaya's.A bridge across the Alaknanda River connects the temple with the other side of the town.Having lived for 47 years in the vicinity of " Siddhivinayak Temple", in Prabhadevi in Mumbai ,one of the most visited pilgrimage Hindu temple's in India was familiar with the external functioning of pilgrimage temples and hence was surprised of the lack of a long queue as is the case with " Siddhivinayak Temple" of Mumbai.
Road to Badrinath Temple
Pilgrims have to get themselves registered before entering Badrinath temple and on week ends I was told the queue had a waiting list of a few hours.My co- travellers were lucky as besides being a bright rainless afternoon there was a very short queue for entry to Badrinath Temple.After registering themselves all four co - travellers crossed the Alaknanda bridge and made their way towards the temple while I stood on the road opposite the river bank facing the temple admiring the scenic setting of the temple along the backdrop of the mighty Himalayan mountains and gushing Alaknanda river.The Nar Parbhat mountain is located opposite the temple while Narayana Parbat is located behind Neelkanth peak. As in any pilgrimage town or city irrespective of the religion there were numerous shops along the road selling religious products and handicrafts.
Close view of Badrinath temple:- Photo Pilgrim/Trekker Mr Rohan.Buchhada.
A few Alm seekers also squatted along the street requesting pilgrims for money.Noticed a lot of construction as well as demolition work in the vicinity and on inquiry was told that entire Badrinath was being rebuilt as a modern Pilgrimage smart town and our visit could be the last of seeing Badrinath town in its present topographical format.
External view of Badrinath Temple from across the Alaknanda river .
There is a unique waterfall at Badrinath with two jets of water emerging from two different rock caves in the same mountain .A sight to behold akin to viewing two set of hose pipes spraying water only difference that this was a natural water jet spray.Travel educates.
Snow capped peaks
After my co- travellers returned from "Darshan(Prayers)"in Badrinath Temple we walked our way towards the car park which had some exotic bikes, most prominently" Royal Enfield's" parked alongside the numerous cars.Had a conversation with a young biker and his pinion rider on a " Hero Honda" bike who had ridden from Haryana to visit Hemkund Sahib and Badrinath, Besides motorcycling from Haryana they had definitely done some real strenuous trekking.
Bridge across Alaknanda
At 1615 hrs we left Badrinath for the 48 Kms mountainous drive to Joshimath. The Himalayan mountain roads look awesome from a height , a series of zig-zag lines along the towering mountainside's with a river or stream flowing below.Finally at 1730 hrs we reached Joshimath a mountain city perched in the Himalaya's. Houses are built along the mountainside including " Jyoti Hotel" which has a majestic view of the Himalaya's akin to a sea facing flat in concrete jungle Mumbai.
Twin waterfalls at Badrinath
Ahoy ! I was exhausted and my buttocks a bit sore after doing a mule trek of 32 kms in a span of 4 days a crash course in " Mountain pony/ mule" riding.Dinner was at 2030 hrs and as my " Internet Data" for the day. After breakfast was also exhausted and hence couldn't update my travel minutes.There was " Load Shedding"in Joshimath with heavy rain and no electricity at night.
L-R Co-Trekkers on way home :- Mr Sudip.Roy, Rohan.Buchhada,Mr Sourav.Goel, Mr Tirthankar.Nandiroy and your's truly "The Narrator".
Definitely my last mountain trek.One for "Record Books"
Thursday(7/7/2022)Departure Joshimath and arrival Haridwar:- After breakfast we were given certificates for having completed the," Valley of Flowers " trek.My personal opinion of "The Searching Souls" trek company is that they have to improve a bit on their logistics and quality of food provided to trekker's.Otherwise it's value for money considering their trek charges for the entire 6 day trek itinerary. We were very lucky to have excellent mountain weather conditions throughout our mountain trek's, something unbelievable considering weather in the Himalaya's can change in a few hours from bad to good and vice versa let alone a day. Left " Jyoti Hotel " at 0815 hrs and began our mountain descent in bright sunshine.
" Pagal nala", infamous for lanslides
At approximately 0850 hrs passed along the infamous " Pagal Nala" highway locale which was being cleared off a recent landslide.This particular place has the most number of landslides every monsoon season and hence the local name " Pagal Nala(Mad Ravine)"Just a little further away came across a awesome mountain sighting.
View of a Landslide.
Stopped at the only restaurant on this highway that offered a beautiful view of this twin mountain peak with the Alaknanda river flowing in the valley below.This particular locality on the mountain highway was called "Garud Ganga" and the twin ice capped peaks " Hathi Godi Palki".Our driver was in a hurry to get to his destination at earliest as weather change is abrupt in the mountains and heavy rain causes landslides.
" Hathi Ghoda palki" Peak.
A railway line is in the process of being built and seems in a few years the entire land connectivity of the hill city's would change making landslide blockages history.At Rudraprayag we took a detour on the highway and stopped at a highway viewing point to observe the Confluence of Mandakani and Alaknanda rivers.There was a distinct differentiation in colouration where the two rivers meet.
Confluence of Mandakani and Alaknanda
The Mandakani water was chocolate brown in colour while the Alaknanda was murky brown.We wanted to visit the spot where Jim Corbett shot the " Maneater of Rudraprayag " but since it was on the other side of the highway couldn't visit the spot as driver was in hurry to beat weather conditions and road blockages. Finally we passed through the most chronic landslide point at Shirobagad near Dhari Devi Mandir which had caused a road blockage on our arrival to Joshimath forcing our driver to take a longer different route and hence we reached late.
View of landslide
In fact to our good fortune this road had opened at night allowing us a passage. The drive along this route was different from our arrival route although the same routine mountainroad.Road cld with river or streams flowing below.We stopped for lunch at " Negi Da Restaurant" near Dhari Devi Mandir on Dhamak Kalyasaur, Badrinath marg.For me lunch was only curd as I was craving for some non vegetarian food even if only eggs.Travel educates.
Terrible Monsoon mountain highways
We took a group photograph here where total strangers of different professions and chronological age gaps became acquaintances and as for me it was also adjusting to the generation gap.At approximately 1300 hrs we passed alongside Srinagar Town which confused me when I first arrived in Haridwar .I never knew a town named Srinagar existed in the Garhwal mountains always thinking there was only one Srinagar in India which is the Capital of the State of Jammu and Kashmir.
Last road travel of Trek Tour.
Travel educates.It was a long dangerous descending drive in bright sunshine with our driver being a daredevil and a slight misjudgement at a blind turn could result in a fatal accident. It was now hot and I was sweating profusely.Unbelievable that just yesterday morning in Ghangaria I was feeling warm only after wearing three upper clothing for my chest cover.
Srinagar in Uttaranchal
Finally at 1530 hrs we reached Rishikesh where co- trekkers Mr Sourav.Goel and Mr Rohan.Buchhada alighted as they were staying at a hostel in Rishikesh. A little ahead at Natraj Chowk it was the turn of youngest trekker Mr Tirthankar.Nandiroy to alight and depart to Dehradun.The final drive to Haridwar was a now familiar route and as we passed Rajaji National Park co- trekker Mr Sudip.Roy told me that the flyover bridge had a underpass to allow the wild animals passage between the highway road .
Wildlife underpass at Rajaji Park.
Rajaji Park had or still has a problem of elephants of the park crossing onto the roads and this underpass flyover is a boon to wildlife conservation.Finally at 1645 hrs we reached Haridwar station where Sudip and myself alighted with Sudip having to catch the night train to Kolkata. As for me walked to familiar " Vishu Hotel" and on complaining of the the poor quality room they allotted on my arrival they upgraded me to a large comfortable room " No 21" on the 2nd floor at the same cost of Rs 600.
In Haridwar it's " Lassi".
The room had a large cooler which was useless in combating the warm temperature of Haridwar.Dinner was a " Masala Dossa" at " Chotiwala " followed by a " Pan Lassi" at " Patiala lassi" situated at Valmiki Chowk.Walked back like a local to my hotel and had to face a power outage.The hotel has a generator and immediately started it. Haridwar was boiling hot in comparison to Ghangaria which is a showcase of India's geographical and climatic diversity within a single nation not found in many countries across the Globe.
A Dip in the Ganga River at Ganesh Ghat. Landmark "Dam Kothi Guest House" can be seen in the background on the opposite bank .
Lucknow Dharamshalah in Haridwar
Friday(8/7/2022)- Saturday(9/7/2022) Departure Haridwar and arrival Mumbai : - A sleepless night dueto the high humidity temperature as well as mosquito menace.At 0600 hrs after my normal toilet routines headed onto the street that was empty except for a few Rhesus monkeys upto their monkey tricks.Stopped at the first roadside tea stall that was open and was at the right place at the right time. A pair of monkeys were providing me with a free ringside circus show by walking across a wire line from one end of a residential building to a tree across the road.
Morning Bathers at Ganesh Ghat.
A hilarious trapeze act with no ringmaster involved.After my tea and lucky to videotape the monkey circus walked towards " Ganesh Ghat".Pilgrims werehaving their ritual dip while at one end in a enclosed space of this open Ghat a " Pooja Ceremony " was in progress.After the Pooja ceremony entered the water finding the steps slippery.
Haridwar Train Station.
Catching hold of the barricade chain had a dip in the Ganga River.the water was murky but not dirty. Took a bottle of Ganges water and walked the short distance to my hotel.Later in the morning had breakfast of " Masala Dosa" at Govinda restaurant and after that a " lassi" at " Mohan's" where I also purchased " Chocolate Mithai/ Mix mithai " for home..Back to my hotel and at 1200 hrs checked out of the hotel and walked across the road to Haridwar train station. Made myself comfortable in Coach"S6 Berth 4" and train departure was punctual at 1330hrs from platform N0 2.A long 33 hrs train ride to Mumbai.Friday was hot and humid in the train and to my amazement got the best 4 + hrs sleep of my life on this train .Unbelievable .On Saturday had my first non vegetarian lunch after 9 day's ," Chicken Biryani" on the train.Excellent cloudy weather but no rain.This endless train journey helped my legs recover partially as well as helping me set a record of completing my entire travelogue on my mobile phone.Something I never did before always using my laptop for typing. Change is Permanent. Weather Providence was in my favour and at 2230 hrs on reaching Bandra train Terminus it was a wet rainless night. Hired a taxi at a fixed rate of Rs 400 akin to airport taxi's and this fare just two years ago was my airport/home fare .Inflation and fuel price hike had created havoc for the common Indian but what me worry ? Finally reached my residence at Old Prabhadevi road, end of a successful Himalayan safari on mule/pony and my own two legs.
