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| At Mumbai Central Station about to board " 09075 MMCT KGM SF SPL" train to Kathgodam for a 28 hrs long train journey.A deviation from the normal fast expensive cramped air travel. |
Having grown up as a avid reader of Hunter/Conservationist Jim.Corbett's books on hunting man-eating "Big Cats" in India most notably his best-seller "Man Eaters of Kumaon" realized i had missed out on sightseeing India's first and largest National park,"Jim Corbett National Park". Decided to travel across the hill-stations of Nainital ,Dehradun and Mussoorie as also Jim Corbett National Park in Ramnagar.State of Uttaranchal is also famous for its iconic landmark boarding schools situated in Nainital and Mussoorie and these schools were also on my tourist sightseeing map.
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| Arrival at " goSTOPS" Hostel on Ayarpatta hill in Nainital. A over one hour drive from Kathgodam train station.Taxi driver Mr Deepak Joshi was a post graduate in Political science, the most highly qualified taxi driver I have come across in India.Travel educates. |
Wednesday (13/11/2024)Departure Mumbai :- As usual had booked my train ticket over a month in advance in October and on Wednesday (13/11/2024) boarded " S10" compartment of the " 09075 Mumbai Central- Kathgodam SF Spl" train and occupied " Seat No 49".This train is a once a week departure from Mumbai and hence in demand.Train departure was punctual at 1100 hrs and as usual after a long time got to travel in the common 2nd class sleeper compartment, a deviation from compact, congested long haul air flights.The train was late by 2 hrs upto Vadodara Junction in Gujarat but at night covered the distance as per scheduled time- table but a absolutely badly maintained long distance train.Toilets were horrible in comparison to other long distance 2nd class compartment trains I have travelled in India.This train was convenient and cheap 2nd class travel for the young lower income working class migrants in Indian city's,most notably Mumbai.Tourists and upper middle class train commuters mostly travel in the A/ C compartment of long distance trains .Akin to certain plush wealthier areas of a city having better facilities and maintenance in comparison to lower income localities similarly in India certain train routes have better passenger service and maintenance .
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| Bonfire in " goSTOPS" palatial estate with a large group of " Gen Z" tourists at the bonfire gathering.Night was chill cold in Nainital.Excellent recorded music was played and I contributed in producing a video of this group of tourists. |
Travel educates. Besides travelling across 100 countries around the Globe have travelled entire India by air,road,train and ship transport.Winter had set into North India and had to use my jacket to avoid the cold .Heavy fog made visibility from the train window reduced to a few meters. A total change of weather within 20 hrs of train travel indicating India's diverse Geographical topography and climatic changes.Saw the harvesting of Water Chestnuts( Singhada) by a local villager from a stream running parallel to the railway tracks.One of my favourite vegetarian snacks in Mumbai. As usual struck conversation with a few local passengers also getting some first hand knowledge of road. transport from Kathgodam to Nainital.Train was delayed by one and a half hours due to the dense fog in the morning .Finally on Thursday (14/11/2024) at 1515 hrs after being on the train for a total of over 28 hrs alighted the train at Kathgodam Station in State of Uttaranchal. Thanks to the extremely cool weather that the 28 hrs train journey was comfortable and not distress travel.In winters travelling long distances to North India by train is very comfortable, even in the second class compartment .On arrival at Kathgodam on exiting the station asked taxi drivers for shared taxi and finally was lucky to come across taxi driver Shri Deepak Joshi who was walking towards his taxi with two young Indian tourists.
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| View of palatial " goSTOPS Nainital " Backpackers estate situated on a mountain hill of plush Ayarpatta in Mallital locality of Nainital as seen from entrance gate. |
On payment of Rs 300 each we three tourists got into the Santro car with destination being Nainital Mall road.Weather was cool and wearing my jacket felt akin to being in Europe in autumn.Forgive me for always making comparisons with Europe as i have visited almost entire Europe during various seasons and absolutely terrified of peak European winters.
A long drive up the mountain with mist engulfing a part of the view as we made our ascent.Casually conversing with driver Mr Deepak.Joshi made me realize he seemed too knowledgeable and educated to be driving a taxi and on inquiring about his education was surprised to know he was a post graduate in Political science.Underemployed for his educational qualifications he loved his profession as a "Taxi Driver" and "Tour guide"
A long drive up the mountain with mist engulfing a part of the view as we made our ascent.Casually conversing with driver Mr Deepak.Joshi made me realize he seemed too knowledgeable and educated to be driving a taxi and on inquiring about his education was surprised to know he was a post graduate in Political science.Underemployed for his educational qualifications he loved his profession as a "Taxi Driver" and "Tour guide"
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| View of Naini Lake shaped in the form of a human eye as seen from a mountain viewpoint on the way to " Himalayan Darshan viewpoint ".According to the Hindu legends, the lake was where the eyes (nain) of the Hindu goddess Sati fell when her distraught husband, Shiva, was carrying her charred body. The Shree Mata Naina Devi Mandir temple is located at the northern end of Naini lake and open to visitors the whole year round which is one of the biggest reasons why Nainital is always a busy hill station. |
It was again a short uphill drive to " Go Stops hostel" situated on Ayarpatta hillside of Nainital. At the reception desk entered the routine biodata and was also told to download the " Gostops" application onto my smartphone as all their payments were " Online" including their cafeteria.Manager Mr Abhishek.Saini alloted me Dormitory " No 202/ Bed A" situated on the first floor of a bungalow style building.
Opening of the dormitory door was through the smartphone " Go Stop application" key, a first in my lifetime although i have used electronic push-button keys to open doors in a few of the " First World Countries " i had visited, most notably Stockholm where the door lock password was changed every few days for " Security purpose". Now here in " Middle Income country" India was learning door opening technology that was a few notches above " First World Country's" door lock technology i had handled having lived in some of the best World class hostels.No wonder the best minds of Indian origin are holding top jobs in most First World countries.May the horse be with you ! Was allotted a bunk bed on the lower deck of the double deck bed, excellent spacious large room.A young lady guest from Delhi was on another bunk bed and struck a conversation with Ms Sunaina who was touring along with her male friend Mr Sartak,both young executives in top notch Indian companies.
Having not eaten a proper lunch or dinner after leaving home in Mumbai was longing for a sumptuous dinner.Was guided to the cafeteria situated in another building which had a snooker table and most uniquely a " Inhouse theatre" but no normal television .A first for a hostel l have lived in having travelled across 100 countries and entire India.Better late than too late. Travel educates.Ordered " Chicken butter rice bowl" costing Rs 284 through their online application which was moderate in taste in comparison to my food back home in Mumbai.May the horse be with you ! After dinner strolled along the palatial hostel estate that had numerous bikes/ scooters parked in a separate parking lot ,a popular and economical mode of transport for backpacker guests.Made inquiries regarding tourist site visits and decided to do a guided tour of Nainital the next day . There was a bonfire gathering on the grounds of the hostel and a small group of " Gen Z " tourists gathered round the bonfire playing recorded Hindi film music.Absolutely chill cold weather and realized I had brought less thermal wear clothing from home little realizing the intensity of the cold weather in Nainital. After the bonfire entertainment made my way back to my hostel room and got cosy in my bed.Extreme cold but good warm blanket covering helped me get my average sleep of 3- 4 hrs.
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| Mountain road tourist parking along the mountain roads of Nainital.Very narrow mountain roads requiring good driving skill. |
Opening of the dormitory door was through the smartphone " Go Stop application" key, a first in my lifetime although i have used electronic push-button keys to open doors in a few of the " First World Countries " i had visited, most notably Stockholm where the door lock password was changed every few days for " Security purpose". Now here in " Middle Income country" India was learning door opening technology that was a few notches above " First World Country's" door lock technology i had handled having lived in some of the best World class hostels.No wonder the best minds of Indian origin are holding top jobs in most First World countries.May the horse be with you ! Was allotted a bunk bed on the lower deck of the double deck bed, excellent spacious large room.A young lady guest from Delhi was on another bunk bed and struck a conversation with Ms Sunaina who was touring along with her male friend Mr Sartak,both young executives in top notch Indian companies.
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| Main entrance of Sherwood College in Nainital One of India's most famous boarding schools. |
Having not eaten a proper lunch or dinner after leaving home in Mumbai was longing for a sumptuous dinner.Was guided to the cafeteria situated in another building which had a snooker table and most uniquely a " Inhouse theatre" but no normal television .A first for a hostel l have lived in having travelled across 100 countries and entire India.Better late than too late. Travel educates.Ordered " Chicken butter rice bowl" costing Rs 284 through their online application which was moderate in taste in comparison to my food back home in Mumbai.May the horse be with you ! After dinner strolled along the palatial hostel estate that had numerous bikes/ scooters parked in a separate parking lot ,a popular and economical mode of transport for backpacker guests.Made inquiries regarding tourist site visits and decided to do a guided tour of Nainital the next day . There was a bonfire gathering on the grounds of the hostel and a small group of " Gen Z " tourists gathered round the bonfire playing recorded Hindi film music.Absolutely chill cold weather and realized I had brought less thermal wear clothing from home little realizing the intensity of the cold weather in Nainital. After the bonfire entertainment made my way back to my hostel room and got cosy in my bed.Extreme cold but good warm blanket covering helped me get my average sleep of 3- 4 hrs.
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| View of the Kumaon Mountain ranges and in the distance the snow capped peaks of the Himalayan mountain range. This view was from " Himalayan Darshan " viewpoint in Nainital on a bright clear Sunny morning. |
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| At " Himalayan Darshan " viewpoint in Nainital. One of the best views with binoculars and telescope as well as the ordinary naked eye on a bright Friday morning.Was at the right place at the right time in the morning.Weather changes abruptly in Nainital. In the afternoons visibility is usually poor due to atmosphere haze. |
Friday (15/11/2024) Nainital:- Dressed up in the chill morning and was awaiting the arrival of my Scooter taxi / guide Mr Gopu.Kirti with whom I had arranged for a days sightseeing tour of Nainital.Scooter taxi rider/ guide Gopu arrived at 0815 hrs and sitting pillion off we rode out of the hostel into the meandering up and down mountain roads of Nainital.We drove downhill onto TRC Sukha Tal petrol pump where Gopu refueled his scooter for the long mountainous journey.It was a long beautiful mountainous drive uphill on a cold morning with bright sunshine.Our first stop was at a viewpoint which gave a beautiful view of Naini lake shaped in the form of a human eye.After a photographic shoot rode further upper the mountain road finally reaching the much hyped and talked about " Himalayan Darshan" tourist site. Weather was excellent with a clear view of the Himalayan mountain range in the distance, both with then naked eye as well as binoculars and telescope.On payment of Rs 100 got a view and explanation of the various snow capped Himalayan peaks in the distance.
After "Himalayan Darshan" tourist point we rode downhill and passed alongside the " Naina Eco tourism " entrance gate which was the start of the 6 Km trek to Naina peak,the highest peak of Nainital having a altitude of 2611 mts(8566 ft).Next to the entrance gate is a large statue and some caves which are locally called " A/ C caves" as a cold wind blows through a passage between these rocks.Breakfast was at a local stall in the vicinity that served parathas and tea and was doing brisk business.
Breakfast was parathas with the signature Nainital " Bhang chutney",pungent but non intoxicating .This stall was formerly a photograph studio when tourist photographers did brisk business before " Digital cameras" made Kodak and reel photography obsolete as also photographers jobless.The " Digital Smartphone" made every tourist a photographer and even my guide Mr Sonu.Kirti lost his profession as a photographer and became a tourist guide .Hence reminiscing his former profession he made me a "MODEL " for the 60 years + age group making me posture at various angles at different tourist sites.Now only hope some advertising scouting agency notices me.Truth is stranger than fiction. May the horse be with you ! After breakfast our next stop was " Lovers / Suicide point" , a mountain view of the valley below having slippery rocks.Spotted one of the largest langur posing like a professional model for tourist photography and in return receiving tit bits of food from tourists.Gopu clicked one classic photo of me with this giant langur sitting in the background, a miniature "King Kong".Opposite to " Lovers/ Suicide" point across the road is " Lands End " which has horses for horse riding for tourists.
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| Naini Ecotourism gate :- Start for 6 Km trek to Naina Peak formerly called China peak. Naina peak is the highest mountain in Nainital. |
Breakfast was parathas with the signature Nainital " Bhang chutney",pungent but non intoxicating .This stall was formerly a photograph studio when tourist photographers did brisk business before " Digital cameras" made Kodak and reel photography obsolete as also photographers jobless.The " Digital Smartphone" made every tourist a photographer and even my guide Mr Sonu.Kirti lost his profession as a photographer and became a tourist guide .Hence reminiscing his former profession he made me a "MODEL " for the 60 years + age group making me posture at various angles at different tourist sites.Now only hope some advertising scouting agency notices me.Truth is stranger than fiction. May the horse be with you ! After breakfast our next stop was " Lovers / Suicide point" , a mountain view of the valley below having slippery rocks.Spotted one of the largest langur posing like a professional model for tourist photography and in return receiving tit bits of food from tourists.Gopu clicked one classic photo of me with this giant langur sitting in the background, a miniature "King Kong".Opposite to " Lovers/ Suicide" point across the road is " Lands End " which has horses for horse riding for tourists.
A short ride on the forest trail cost Rs 650 while a ride to " Tiffin Top/ Dorothy's seat" cost Rs 900.
The trek to " Tiffin Top" was closed as there was a landslide.Our next tourist sighting was " Barapathar Rock" which was used for training mountaineers with a special mountaineering camp for the youth set up in the vicinity. From "Barapathar Rock" it was a long uphill ride to " Lands End ", Khurpatal lake viewpoint, a unique lake that changed it's colours according to the weather of Nainital.Next stop was the " Himalayan Botanical Garden" where the entrance fee was Rs 50 with the garden occupying a hilltop.Excellent well maintained botanical garden having a excellent " Insect Museum" and a collection of cactus.It is a long uphill walk from the entrance of the garden to the " Cactus House" situated on top of the garden hill.Next stop on the Scooter guided tour was " Mountain Magic Adventure park" that had extreme adventure sports.Sariyatal, a small lake of the Kumaon mountain range has a extension into " Mountain Magic park" bifurcating it and is called " Sarita Tal water point".At "Sarita Tal Water Point" boating,Zorbing , zip lining and also the rare " Bicycle zip lining" which I was seeing for the first time in India is conducted for tourists .As for me had done the World's longest zip cycling across the Dashbashi Canyon in Georgia.
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| At " Lovers Point/ Suicide Point " in Nainital. Me and this giant Langur in search of companionship ? |
The trek to " Tiffin Top" was closed as there was a landslide.Our next tourist sighting was " Barapathar Rock" which was used for training mountaineers with a special mountaineering camp for the youth set up in the vicinity. From "Barapathar Rock" it was a long uphill ride to " Lands End ", Khurpatal lake viewpoint, a unique lake that changed it's colours according to the weather of Nainital.Next stop was the " Himalayan Botanical Garden" where the entrance fee was Rs 50 with the garden occupying a hilltop.Excellent well maintained botanical garden having a excellent " Insect Museum" and a collection of cactus.It is a long uphill walk from the entrance of the garden to the " Cactus House" situated on top of the garden hill.Next stop on the Scooter guided tour was " Mountain Magic Adventure park" that had extreme adventure sports.Sariyatal, a small lake of the Kumaon mountain range has a extension into " Mountain Magic park" bifurcating it and is called " Sarita Tal water point".At "Sarita Tal Water Point" boating,Zorbing , zip lining and also the rare " Bicycle zip lining" which I was seeing for the first time in India is conducted for tourists .As for me had done the World's longest zip cycling across the Dashbashi Canyon in Georgia.
Next stop was at " Woodland Waterfalls " garden which has a natural Waterfall gushing down the mountainside and modeled for a few photographs.
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| " Lands End Park" opposite " Lovers/ Suicide Point" in Nainital. Horse rides to " Tiffin Top/ Dorothy's Seat " are available from this park in Nainital. |
During our ride along Arvind ashram road came across Rajkot mansion ,one of the oldest buildings in Nainital and a little further downhill was the entrance gate of Sherwood College with this road having a few prominent boarding schools in the vicinity.Riding along came across another bird's eye view point of Naini lake.Finally arrived at the Raj Bhavan (Governors house) with " St Francis home Catholic church" situated next to the sprawling Governors house.Entered St Francis Home Catholic church compound but the entire estate was desolate and locked .Walked back to Raj Bhavan(Governors house) and purchased a Rs 50 ticket for the 1400 hrs guided tour of the palatial building.At 1400 hrs we tourists entered the complex and clicked a few photographs of the magnificent building that was a mini replica of Buckingham Palace in London.
We were later taken inside the Raj Bhavan (Governors House) which was built in 1897 in Gothic architecture and the interior period furniture was a furniture collector's dream.
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| At " Raj Bhavan ( Governors house) in Nainital.Gothic architecture and a miniature replica of Buckingham Palace in London. |
There was a pair of elephant tusks from pre-Independence British era as also stag horns..This building is the summer retreat of the Governor of Uttarakhand and in pre-independent India Nainital served as the Summer Capital of the United Provinces .The Raj Bhavan has a area of 220 acres with a vintage golf course built in 1936 in 45 acres of land.
On finishing the Governor's house tour we tourists made our exit and to my surprise found Scooter rider/tour guide Mr Gopu Kirti missing from the parking lot.Phone was also functioning erratically and managed to ring him up to realize he was doing " Overtime duty" carting some other tourist in a nearby locale.Had omelette / bread/ Tea as late lunch in the canteen next to Governors house main entrance gate.
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| " Gurney House " built in 1881 on Ayarpatta hill in close proximity to modern era " goSTOPS " Hostel was residence of hunter- Conservationist and writer Jim.Corbett . |
After about a half an hours wait guide Gopu Kirti arrived on his scooter and we both headed back towards Ayarpatta hill locality of Nainital.Last stop was outside landmark " Gurney House " ,the former summer residence of Jim.Corbett now under a different ownership but having a few of his original wild life game hunting exhibits and maintained akin to a museum.Formerly it was kept open for tourist visits on a few days but today it was closed and hence just got a external glimpse of historic " Gurney House".From Gurney House it was a short downhill ride across to " goSTOPS " Hostel. Paid scooter taxi rider cum tour guide Mr Gopu.Kirti Rs 1200 as fees and made my way into the hostel room.Later thanks to hostel manager Mr Abhijit.Saini who set up the home movie viewing projector that i got to watch the Netflix Hindi movie " Do Patti" , a recently released film.A watchable suspense film and something different from the average Hindi film with a bold moral message. Co-incidentally this film was shot in Uttarakhand with the theme revolving around the extreme sport of paragliding, a love triangle between twin siblings and a attempted murder being the centre of focus.
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| View of KHURPATAL LAKE from the peak mountain viewpoint at " Lands End" in Nainital. Khurpatal is one of the best, beautiful and famous lake that is located at the outer rim of Nainital city and is 11 km away. As per geographical location it is about 1600 m above the sea level and is a anglers paradise. Lots of organic farming producing vegetables is done in the vicinity of the lake. |
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| View of " Concrete Jungle" on Mallital side of Nainital Town centre as viewed while descending down from plush forested Ayarpatta hill. Mallital is the Northern end of Naini lake while Tallital is the southern end of Naini lake joined together by Nainital Mall road now renamed Gobind Ballabh Pant Marg. |
Saturday (16/11/2024) Nainital :- At 0700 hrs in the cold morning got dressed and headed out of the hostel taking the downhill short- cut road to Nainital Mall.I was the lone morning walker and passed alongside a few heritage chimney roofed bungalows. Ayarpatta hill is one of the plushest and costliest locales in Nainital with Jim Corbett's former residence " Gurney House" situated in the same vicinity as also a few modern plush hotel resorts costing a fortune in room rentals.It was a total downhill trek along the mountain hill and clarifying my direction with a early morning dog walker and another local finally reached the base of the mountain hill at Glandon Road on Mallital side of Nainital Town.
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| St Francis Catholic church built in 1868 on a hillock in Tallital facing Nainital Mall Road(Gobind Ballabh Pant Marg).. |
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| View of Nainital Mall Road early morning .There is a promenade along Naini lake side along Mall road.Scooters and motorcycles for hire.The most economical and convenient form of transport in Nainital. |
There were numerous stray dogs and realize the reason " goSTOPS " staff advise against walking at late nights in the vicinity of Ayarpatta hill locale as it is densely forested and the occasional stray leopard from Corbett park could stray in search of easy kills like stray dogs.The large ground of Nainital Stadium,Nainital Nagar Palika building with its imposing clock tower and the Jama Masjid greeted my eyes .The locale was crowded with matchbox type buildings ,a day and night difference from plush Ayarpatta hill locality with its dense forest and greenery .Inquiring directions walked towards Mallital Bazaar where locals were having their morning chai(tea) and almost all shops yet to open for business. From Mallital Bazaar walked in a straight line along Nainital Mall which is a 1.5 Km link between Tallital and Mallital sections of Nainital Town situated on either ends of Naini lake.As it was early morning most commercial shops were closed and there is a seperate promenade running along the lake boundary parallel to Mall road for joggers and walkers.Observed numerous docile well fed stray dogs and numerous bikes and scooters parked alongside the road on hire for tourists. Came across the " First Central Methodist Church(1856)" and little further ahead " St Francis Catholic church(1868)", both landmarks situated on small hillocks facing Mall road and Naini lake.Visited St Francis Catholic church locally known as the " Lake church " ,the only person in the entire church early in the morning . Well maintained church with its original structure intact and not modernized .Finally reached Tallital Bazaar situated at ,the southern tip of Naini lake which was the end of Mall road .Breakfast was " Samosa " along with " Bal Mithai" the traditional local sweet of Nainital at tiny popular "Bisht Mishthan Bhandar" restaurant situated inside the bazaar.Authentic Kumaon snacks.
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| In Tallital Bazaar of Nainital, the southern end of naini lake. Nainital Mall Road which is 1.5 Km long is the connecting link between Mallital and Tallital ends of Nainital Town. |
After breakfast walked towards Nainital local bus depot situated in close proximity to Tallital Bazaar . Casually on inquiring about local buses to Bhimtal was thrilled on being told that the bus in front of me was about to depart to Bhimtal.At the spur of the moment at 0900 hrs boarded the crowded bus, lucky to get a seat.The ticket price was Rs 50 for the 24 km distance and it was a usual mountain drive through curved narrow roads .Excellent pleasant cool weather with bright sunshine. The major town on the route was Bhowali Town absolutely crowded with people and traffic congestion on the narrow mountain road.The lady bus conductor was helpful in advising me for alighting at the right bus stop to Bhimtal lake which was the last stop of this bus.At 1000 hrs was at the last stop of Bhimtal which was near the " Aquarium Island Cafe" that I had planned to visit.I was a early tourist at 1000 hrs and inquiring about boat transport to the island was approached by the boatman and on payment of Rs 350 made the short lake voyage from Bhimtal lake jetty to " Aquarium Island cafe".On arriving on Aquarium Island at 1015 hrs realized I was the first tourist to step onto this cute tiny island.Entrance fee was Rs 150 but to my surprise there were no toilets on this island Aquarium cafe as Bhimtal is a fresh water lake and human excreta would pollute this scenic holy lake.
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| Aquarium Cafe Island on Bhimtal lake. |
Walked through the Aquarium having the entire tiny island to myself and finally made myself comfortable on the rooftop garden of the cafe overlooking Bhimtal lake.Observing with my binoculars Bhimtal Town seemed less commercialized than Nainital and the mountain side facing the lake had beautiful modern era houses.After 1300 hrs the weather changed abruptly with mist engulfing the mountainsides and reducing visibility.I was very lucky to experience bright sunshine for the entire day yesterday otherwise if done today a part of the scooter sightseeing tour of Nainital would have been a waste.
Scooter taxi rider/ Guide Shri Sonu.Kirti made a excellent local Kumaon quote, Quote," In Nainital weather is unpredictable,in Mumbai fashion is unpredictable and in Delhi politics is unpredictable! How true ?
Finally made my exit from " Aquarium Island Cafe " and to my horror on landing ashore was told that there was a heavy traffic jam at Bhowali and hence buses and shared taxis delayed.Whiling away my time was approached by a sales representative of tour agency " The Soaring kites paragliding adventure" for " Tandem Paragliding" at Pandeygaon and 2 other locales approximately 3 Kms from Bhimtal Town.
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| Paddle boating rides on Bhimtal lake. |
Charges were Rs 600 for a short flight and Rs 2000 for a 15 minutes long tandem flight.As for yours truly there was no adventure sport for civilians that i had not done and was now just a common sightseeing tourist.Akin to the game of Cricket i had retired from various forms of extreme sport tourism having accomplished the same during my younger years and now just concentrating on leisure travel. May the horse be with you ! I was prepared for the inevitable of spending the night in Bhimtal and boarding a bus the next morning in case transport was impossible due to the unexpected traffic jam. Finally on advice from some locals decided to walk up towards the start of Bhimtal lake to the main town centre.It was a long 1 Km walk along Bhimtal lake finally reaching the market place.Was in the nick of time to board a packed shared taxi to Bhowali.There was a massive traffic jam exiting Bhimtal Town and finally was at Bhowali taxi/ bus stand with the shared taxi fare being Rs 30 .At Bhowali there was a massive queue for taxi's or a bus to Nainital as a huge traffic jam on the Nainital road had totally stopped traffic.Finally at approx 1600 hrs a empty bus arrived at the stop and the rush to enter the bus was akin to entering the second class compartment of a Mumbai local train at peak hours.Passed my fitness test entering the bus and getting a seat as standing passengers are not allowed since the drive is along curved inclined mountain roads.Was just happy to be in the bus and initially we progressed well but later covering 9 Kms took us one and a half hour.
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| Nainital Mall Road at night. Handicraft shops,restaurants and hotels. Facing the length of scenic Naini Lake. |
A few young tourists were seated next to me and they were discussing their photo's and videos of Nainital.Drones has changed the art of photography and got to see some excellent videos of Naina peak and Nani lake clicked from a drone from Naina peak.On weekends Nainital has heavy traffic and although this was the tourist off- season shudder to travel during peak tourist season in Nainital.Had a nice long walk along Mall Road that was packed with tourists shopping or just walking along.Naini lake looked splendid at dusk and at night.The shops and string of restaurants proved the fact that Nainital was a prime tourist destination in India.Dinner was " Mutton Dumpphokt Biryani" costing Rs 536 at plush " Zooby's Kitchen" on Mall road.They have branches in Delhi and Bhimtal and the restaurant was packed with diners.
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| After escaping from one of the worst mountain road traffic jam a premium sumptuous " Mutton Dumpphokt Biryani " at landmark Zooby's Kitchen on Nainital Mall Road. |
Excellent food and worth the money.Dessert was ice-cream and strolling along plush Mall Road came across a old busker singing 70's/80's Hindi film classics and was not surprized that " Generation Z " still loves classics of another era .Timeless classic songs in any language outlasts generations.Walked towards " Shree Maa Naina Devi Temple" ,the most sacred temple in Nainital.The narrow road leading towards the temple was crowded with tourists and devotees besides this road was undergoing some repair work . There is a shopping arcade and the landmark " Capitol " movie theatre which originally opened in 1920's and was the oldest theatre in Nainital .In 2016 this theatre was refurbished and opened as a brand new 400 seat theatre.The pathway towards the temple had numerous hawkers selling clothing.There is the Gobind Singh Sabha Gurudwara next to Naina Devi temple and at night the Gurudwara was brilliantly illuminated .A short walk ahead from the Sikh Gurudwara is the main entrance gate to Naina Devi temple. Just outside the Naina Devi gate temple is the famous Bhotia market( Tibetan market) selling winter clothing and other accessories . There are also numerous eatery shops on one side of Bhotia market.After finishing sightseeing of the Bhotia market walked back towards Mall road and headed towards the landmark Jama Masjid Mosque in Mallital. Hired a scooter taxi and on a fare of Rs 150 the rider agreed to take me to home away from home " goSTOPS " Hostel.Passed alongside the High Court of Uttarakhand built in 1900 which has a large park in front of the building with Naina peak, the highest peak in Nainital in the background.The scooter taxi rider was new to the locality and lost his way in the maze of jigsaw mountain roads and finally after inquiry at a hotel was redirected and reached the hostel.Staying at "goStops" Nainital was expensive without private transport as scooter taxi riders charged a minimum of Rs 150 each way and hence all young guests had hired scooters/motorcycles as a mode of transport at "goStops" with me being the oddball "Rolling Stone" having no vehicle for personal usage.
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| Gurudwara Shri Guru Singh Sabha situated adjacent to Naina Devi temple at the Northern tip of Naini lake.Beautifully illuminated at night |
Hostel dormitory room had a excellent geyser and the hot water bath refreshed my tired body.There was a barbecue and would have joined if beer or a peg of hard liquor was served.The young crowd come in groups and having been through their stage in life now hoping to emulate the " Rolling Stones" in travel longivity.In the " Home Theatre" a group was watching a English film.Nainital rocks irrespective of tourist season or tourist off- season.
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| Nainital Stadium with landmark Nainital Nagar Palika Building ( Municipal Building) with its Tower Clock in the background. This is the second oldest Nagar Palika building in India.The Stadium is a large playground where mostly football is played by the youth.A part of the playground at one end has been converted into a parking lot for vehicles. |
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| Entrance to Shree Mata Naina Devi Mandir situated at Northern end of Naini lake. |
Sunday(17/11/2024)Nainital:- After normal routines got dressed and like a local did the downhill trek from " goSTOPS" Hostel to Nainital Mall road.Refreshed myself with 2 cups of tea and later had local Kumaon breakfast " Aloo ke Gutke",unique different taste and similar to fried potatoes.Later walked along Naini lake towards Naina Devi Temple.Spotted a shoal of pet carp fish in the lake,a beautiful sight.Bhotia market was gradually opening at 0930 hrs and crowd was less compared to yesterday night.At 1000 hrs made my way to the " Aerial Express Ropeway" for the cable ride to " Snow View point".Ticket cost was Rs 370 and every tourist is allotted a time limit of 1 hr at " Snow view point".
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| " Ropeway cable ride" from Mallital to " Snow View Point " in Nainital. |
I was in the first group batch of the day to ride up on the cable car and it was exhilarating watching Naini lake and the surrounding as we ascended in height.On reaching the summit of " SNOW VIEW POINT" headed to the actual Himalayan mountain viewing gallery. It was akin to the sighting from " Himalayan Darshan " viewpoint of Nainital but according to me the " HIMALAYAN DARSHAN VIEWPOINT" is much.better for viewing the Himalayan mountain range than " SNOW VIEW POINT". Tourists can also arrive by vehicles to " Snow View point" as there is a mountain road to the top besides the cable car.There is a adventure park on " Snow View Point" and excellent for kids and the youth as well as the young in mind and physique.Age is a numerical number for a few.There was a complimentary " Dinosaur Show" along with the cable ticket which was superb and on par with First World entertainment budget productions.The best dinosaur or horror show I have witnessed after viewing the film " Jurassic Park".To me this " Dinosaur Horror Show" was better than the Himalayan peaks viewpoint as I had visited Himalayan Darshan viewpoint prior to this viewing.Finally at 1130 hrs made my way down to Mallital base on the cable car.
Worth the money and time for the experience of the cable car ride and " Dinosaur Horror show".
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| In " G.B Pant High Altitude zoo( Nainital Zoo) " situated on Sher Ka Danda Hill at a altitude of 2,100 meters and established in 1995. |
May the horse be with you ! My next visit was to " G.B.Pant High Altitude zoo ( Nainital Zoo)" .On payment of Rs 50 hired a pillion scooter taxi ride on Mall road outside "India Hotel " and it was a steep short uphill drive to the vehicle parking lot of the zoo.From the parking lot it was a long uphill walk to the ticket counter. Entrance fee which is Rs 100 was free for me as a " Senior Citizen" and realized getting old has its own concessions.This entire zoo occupies the sher Ka Danda mountain hillock and hence viewing the entire zoo exhibits is akin to indulging on a hill trek.Excellently maintained zoo and a bit similar to the Darjeeling zoo in design which is also situated on a hillock.Having viewed almost all zoo's in India and a few in Europe,Africa and other Asian countries should say that the " G.B.Pant High Altitude zoo" is well maintained, specializing in displaying Himalayan species.Only drawback is that physically unfit and the very elderly would not be able to visit this zoo as it involves strenuous trekking and not just ordinary walking fitness.Something different among zoo's I have visited and worth a visit if interested in Himalayan wildlife .The zoo also has tigers,bears and leopards with the leopards enclosure being at the summit of the hill of the zoo.After the zoo visit hired a scooter taxi and alighted back at starting point "India Hotel ".Lunch was classic " Mutton/ Veg Thali" costing Rs 440 at Cafe de Mall on Mall road.
Weather was excellent ,the best weather during my entire 4 days stay in Nainital.It was cool and I had to remove my sweater as I was feeling warm.
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| Landmark Jama Masjid Mosque next to Nainital Stadium in Mallital locality of Nainital.Built in 1882 by British for Muslims it was rebuilt in 2004- 2005 |
The strenuous trekking walks helped me consume as well as digest my food intake.After lunch casually strolling along Mall road promenade suddenly spotted 2 sailing yachts on the lake.Made quick inquiries with the joy ride pedal / canoe boatmen and was told to enter " Boathouse club" from where they conducted yacht boat rides for tourists.It was 1530 hrs and I almost ran the short distance to the plush " Boathouse club" reception desk where to my relief was told that I could book a ride on payment of Rs 500.Nainital Yacht club is the highest yachting club in India and amogst the highest in the World.Shri Laxman .Singh was the helmsman of Yacht" N0 9" named " Spray" and as the yacht was already parked alongside the wharf boarded it quickly and off we sailed into the wind.Indescribable cool breeze and having been employed on various ships for 23 years this was the first time I was sailing on a authentic wind assisted sail boat.It was a wonderful lake cruise with helmsman Laxman Singh skilfully manouevering the sails.My love for sailing and seeing various ports made me stay in the Merchant Navy for 23 long years and today I felt the urge to be on the high seas again.Change is permanent in life and in professional careers.
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| Yachting on Naini lake which has one of the World's highest Altitude Yacht club. Yachting for tourists is only on Saturday and Sunday from 1000hrs- 1600 hrs provided the wind and weather is conducive for Yachting. |
Yachting is conducted for tourists at the " Boathouse Club" of Nainital every Saturday's and Sunday's between 1000 - 1600 hrs.After the yacht ride as the sky was bright and weather pleasant decided to trek up the mountain hill to " goSTOPS" Hostel thus saving Rs 150 scooter taxi ride as well as testing my own trekking staying power .The route was familiar to me but was hoping I could stay the distance having already done mini treks at " Snow view" point and Nainital Zoo.May the horse be with you ! A young lady was trekking ahead of me and this narrow hill route was also used by motorcycles.I was surprised at my own energy and seems swimming 1 Km daily does have benefits.Finally reached " goSTOPS " Hostel and the first thing I did in the hostel was have a hot water bath to soothe my aching legs.Relaxed on my bed checking my days photography and Vlogging.Later visited the " Bonfire " locale where as usual a group of newcomers were enjoying themselves. " goSTOPS " was housefull and as usual a very lively ambiance .As for me, a " Rolling Stones" nomad traveller having gathered some moss along my travels while interacting with different generations and cultures.One important observation was the rapid growth of the Indian backpacker tourist Industry in recent years .Men as well as women have been bitten by the travel bug and with India's geographical diversity and local population seems the backpacking Industry is here to stay and not just a Western culture origin fad.Chill cold in Nainital with night temperatures at 6*C - 8 * C.
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| Bhotia Market ( Tibetan Market) situated at Northern end of Naini lake facing Sikh Gurudwara and Shree Mata Naina Devi Mandir. Clothing shops and restaurants line the periphery of this large popular market in Nainital. |
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| At " Zostel Hostel " in Dhikuli village of Ramnagar inside the buffer zone of Jim Corbett National Park. |
Monday (18/11/2024) Departure Nainital and arrival Ramnagar :- Early morning breakfast of fried eggs/ toast / ginger tea at the cafeteria costing Rs 220.Bid goodbye to " goSTOPS" Hostel and thanks to manager Shri Abhishek.Saini that I got directions to the bus stop for Ramnagar.It was a long early morning downhill walk and confirming my route with locals finally reached Sukhtal, the main bus terminus for buses heading to Ramnagar.At 0710 hrs was early at the bus stop with the bus parked at the stop.Was only hoping not to encounter traffic jams unlike the unforgettable Bhimtal to Nainital traffic jam.Had my cup of tea at the local dhabba near the bus stop. Near the bus stop a local hotel owner resident was taking his imported Canadian Labrador " Darry" for a walk when it attracted a local pair of resident semi- stray dogs.After ages got a early morning view of dogs mating , a hilarious spectacle for onlookers.The bus finally was filled with passengers and in hindsight it was good that I was early otherwise would have not got a seat. Departure was at 0830 hrs and a smooth travel along the mountainous roads without any traffic jams. At 0945 hrs passed alongside Jim Corbett museum in Kaladhunghi, Choti Haladwani.
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| May the elephants be with you ! At Dhikuli village with female elephants " Ladli" and " Phoolmata " used for tourist joy rides.Both elephants are approximately 45 years of age . |
With a abrupt change in ambient temperatures so also was the change in highway road from Haladwani to Ramnagar,a broad highway in comparison to the narrow mountain roads of the hill stations in Uttaranchal. At 1100 hrs was at Ramnagar bus stand and on alighting rang up " Zostel Hostel" for their address.Had to hire a autorickshaw costing Rs 200 to reach " Zostel Hostel" situated in Dhikuli village .Autorickshaw driver had trouble finding the hostel as it's previous name was " Safari Park Resort " now under new ownership of the " Zostel Hostel" group in India.Change is permanent. The " Chocolate Room" cafe & bakers was the landmark of Zostel Hostel location.Receptionist Shri Shakti.Pawar welcomed me and allotted me " Room No 102" on ground floor next to the reception office.It was a 4 bed dormitory room that was vacant and hence had the entire room to myself. Warm weather of approximately 24* C at Corbett in comparison to 6-8 * C at night and early mornings in Nainital.Within a span of two and half hours road journey from a elevation of 2084 meters( 6837 ft) in Nainital to a elevation of 345 meters(1132 ft) I had changed my clothing from warm thermal wear to shorts and shirt.Incredible geographical variations of the Indian subcontinent.
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| Is " Raja" , the Ugliest camel in India ? First time in my life spotted a camel with "Buck Teeth ". A very normal joy ride camel except for its unforgettable face, it's claim to fame. |
Lunch was chicken fried rice/ Chicken fry ordered at a shop in close proximity to Zostel Hostel.After lunch had a walk along Dhikuli road and about 1 Km away came across a pair of female elephants and 4 camels with their handlers awaiting the arrival of tourists for rides.A family took photo's of a elephant blessing their children by raising it's trunk.One of the camels named " Raja" had " Camel buck teeth" , the first time in my life seeing a freak and grotesque looking camel.Have visited the largest camel fair in Pushkar in Rajasthan and can't recollect seeing a camel with this facial features.Could win a " Ugliest camel contest" unopposed akin to the " Ugly Dog" and " Ugly Cat " contests.Had a talk with the elephant handler who told me that the cost of maintaining " Ladli" and " Phoolmata" amounted to Rs 2000/ day for each of them.Both were approximately 45 years of age and the mahouts family have been in this elephant ride business at Corbett park since last 35 years.On payment of Rs 50 took a photo standing between " Ladli" and " Phoolmata" and later hugging Phoolmata's trunk.After the photoshoot walked back towards the hostel when my phone rang and was amazed to see young 20 year old Mr Aryan.Kumar,a BTech student in Dehradun whom I last met in Nainital at " Himalayan Darshan" point walking behind me.Co- incidentally he was also staying at Zostel Hostel along with fellow " goSTOPS " guest Mr Deva .Manikanta, a lieutenant in the Indian army.
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| Main Highway from Ramnagar to Dhikala Zone of Jim Corbett National Park passing alongside buffer zone village of Dhikuli, my residence .On the opposite side of this line of shops and restaurants/ hotels is the dense buffer zone forest of Jim Corbett National park. On Tuesday (5/11/2024) a woman wood- cutter who had ventured into the jungle just across this road was killed by a tiger.Entire one side of this Ramnagar Highway is Jim Corbett National park buffer zone.Elephants do cross this highway at certain locations. |
Deva had ridden his bike from " goSTOPS " to " Zostel" with Aryan as pillion rider.They had booked for a jeep safari in the morning.Later the 3 of us relaxed at the well maintained tiny swimming pool of the hostel.Deva and Aryan had a swim with Deva learning the basics of swimming.Just in the morning the 3 of us living in " goSTOPS " hostel were shivering at 6-8 * c of cold weather and here in the evening in Dhikuli village of Ramnagar young student Mr Aryan Kumar was learning swimming while Mr Deva .Manikanta was teaching him the same.Next to the pool was a state of the art discarded gymnasium with various body building exercise machines.Zostel Hostel had hardly any occupancy and as for me had the entire 4 beds dormitory room to myself.With every second building in Dhikuli village being a restaurant,hotel or resort as a businessman myself wondered how many were in profit as competition for tourists would be as fierce as territorial tiger fights in the wild.Was told that at weekends the maximum tourist occupancy was attained .At night music was being played in the resort on the main road and the resorts in Corbett was also favoured for wedding celebrations.Night temp at Dhikuli was 13*c ,definitely not as cold as Nainital.
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| At 0630 hrs at the Dhangarhi Gate of Jim Corbett National Park. This is the main entrance gate for viewing " Dhikala Zone " of Jim Corbett National Park.Corbett National Park is divided into eight ecotourism zones to properly manage the tourism activities in the tiger reserve area. These zones are the Dhikala zone, Bijrani zone, Jhirna Zone, Garjiya Zone, Sitabani Zone, Pakhro Zone, Dhela zone, and Durga Devi zone. The safari tour is organized in two shifts by the forest officials of Corbett tiger reserve in all of the ecotourism zones. A; |
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| A total of 4 Canter Tour vans assembled at Dhangarhi gate for the morning Canter Safari of Dhikala Zone of Jim Corbett National Park. |
Tuesday (19/11/2024) Dhikuli village in Ramnagar :- A sleepless night and at 0500 hrs got dressed for the " Dhikala Zone Canter safari".The previous day I had rung up the Corbett tour official of " GTI Travels" Mr Arpit.Rawat regarding pick-up and he gave me the vehicle drivers phone nos to confirm the same.Rang up driver Shri Surendra who told me that I would have to pay Rs 500 and the tour vehicle would pick me up in the morning.Agreed for the same and hence at 0545 hrs was on the highway road outside Zostel Hostel next to the prominent signboard advertisement " Corbett Caves" , a hotel adjacent to Zostel Hostel.Young tourists Mr Aryan.Kumar and Mr Deva.Manikanta also arrived at the same spot and they both departed to another safari zone in their hired jeep.
At 0615 hrs my canter bus arrived in the dark hours of the morning and was relieved to board the tour bus.Dhangarhi entry gate ,the entrance to " Dhikala Zone" of Corbett National Park was 6 Kms from Zostel hostel and it was a cold morning drive to Dhangarhi Gate.
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| Driving alongside the Ramganga River that is the lifeline of Jim Corbett National Park. |
On entering Dhangarhi gate was greeted by the site of other " Canter Tour buses" as well as tourists as the main reporting point for the Dhikala canter tour was " Dhangarhi Gate".Had my mornings cup of tea at the cafeteria and all tourists I.D's were checked before entering their respective tour buses with myself entering " Canter Tour bus No 2". There was a total of 4 Canter tour vans for todays morning tour.Finally the tour began in the chill morning cold and a Dutch couple were seated next to me with whom I picked up a casual conversation.The Dutch gentleman was surprised that I was wearing no warm clothing little realizing that I was acclimatising myself for a future " Antarctica tour".We drove through the narrow forest track path that had dense growth of Sal trees.I was feeling the chill and the odd tourist without any thermal wear jacket but akin to a athlete or a ascetic monk I was training to withstand cold.Our guide was seated next to the driver.Our first sighting of the day was a young sambar deer crossing a small stream.Came across dry river beds with marble Stones which overflowed during the rainy season and hence the park closed during the Monsoon season.Akin to train railway bookings the booking for " Dhikala Zone " Safari has to be done at least a month in advance.
All celebrities and Govt V.I.P 's including Prime Minister Narendra.Modi always visit the " Dhikala Zone" and hence my enthusiasm and curiosity to visit only " Dhikala Zone" of Corbett park.
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| A herd of Chital deer. |
Came across the fresh pugmarks of a tiger but not a tiger in sight. Spotted a barking deer and also chitals( Spotted deers).After about 10 kms of safari drive we arrived " Khinnanauli Rest House" , one of the inhouse jungle rest houses of Corbett park.This is a V.V.I.P rest house inside Dhikala zone.There was a convoy of Morning tour safari jeeps parked in the compound and on inquiry with a tourist was told that they spotted 3 different tigers in today's morning jeep safari.Jackpot! Jeep safaris in Dhikala Zone is only for guest house resident tourists, a real luxury requiring advance booking besides a good tourist bank balance budget.Not for the average " Solo Backpacker tourist" or budget family tourist.After using the wash room we tourists boarded our Canter bus and began the onward safari through different terrains.Spotted the beautiful Khaleez pheasant,a bird species native to the Himalayas. One prized uncommon sighting was of the large tawny fish owl sitting totally camouflaged high up on a tree.At 0920 hrs after covering a distance of 31Sq Kms from Dhangarhi Gate we entered the elephant grassland locale of the park and finally reached " Dhikala Forest lodge ".
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| At " Khinnanauli Rest House" inside Dhikala Zone. This is a V.V.I.P guesthouse inside the forest using Solar power. Prime Minister Narendra Modi stayed here during his visit to Corbett National Park. |
This scenic forest lodge is situated alongside the Ramganga river bank and no wonder besides being expensive requires a months prior booking akin to " Dhikala Zone Canter safari".Breakfast was omelette tea at the rest house restaurant, moderately priced.Admired the view of the Ramganga river, the lifeline of Corbett National Park.All the large Monsoon rivers dry up by November as witnessed during our safari but the Ramganga river is a perrineal river flowing through Corbert National park.All rest houses inside Corbett national park have solar fencing systems which protect the resident tourists from any wildlife attack. Dhikala Forest lodge is the last point of the " Dhikala canter safari" a distance of 31 Kms from the entrance Dhangarhi Gate. We began our return journey through the grassland jeep train hoping to spot a tiger.We did spot a crocodile along the river bank and a few Sambar deer.As for me was in awe of the Forrest terrain of Dhikala Zone of Corbett National Park.A variety of forest vegetation and topography ranging from dense tall Sal trees to barren dry river streams and finally to tall elephant grass ,Dhikala Zone of Corbett National Park had it all.
A pair of jackals crossed our road , the only carnivore mammal we sighted during our safari.Came across a lone wild boar and a full grown sambar.
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| Sprawling " Dhikala Zone " tourist residential accomodation inside core zone of Jim Corbett National Park. Daily morning and evening jeep safaris are arranged for resident safari tourists.Spotting a tiger is guaranteed during these jeep safaris. If you have the money to splurge advice staying in this reserve which has to be booked a month or more in advance |
Finally all good things have to end and at 1130 hrs we arrived at Dhangarhi Gate.A almost 5 hrs of safari inside Dhikala zone of Corbett National Park. All passengers alighted the bus except a young couple and myself.I have seen wild tigers at Tadoba National park in Maharashtra and although we didn't sight any large mammal besides the jackal couple i was not at all disappointed on not sighting either a tiger, elephant or a bear as just cruising on the wild jungle track of Dhikala Zone paid me dividend multiple times.My advice to wildlife enthusiasts is make Jim Corbett park a mandatory visit on your " India Travel List" just to understand forest topography and if extremely lucky or wealthy to reside overnight inside the jungle reserves would definitely also sight the elusive star of Jim Corbett National Park besides other large predators. A minimum of 2 day's stay is mandatory in any large safari park with at least 4 jeep safari's in 2 days to sight a variety of animal species. May the horse be with you ! During daylight could view the topography of the road leading to Zostel hostel.
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| At DHIKALA FOREST LODGE .Dhikala, located on the edge of the Patli Dun valley along the Ramganga river with the Kanda ridge as a backdrop, is known for its stunning landscape. Originally built in the 1890s, the old FRH was one of the first accommodations in the park, but was infested with malaria until 1963. It has a unique history, as it was the venue for launching "Project Tiger." Project Tiger " was a wildlife conservation movement initiated in India to protect the endangered tiger. The project was initiated in 1973 by the Ministry of Environment, Forest and Climate Change of the Government of India. As of March 2024, there are 55 protected areas that have been designated as tiger reserves under the project.After 1975, Dhikala was officially opened for tourists, making it one of the most sought after destinations. |
The highway road had a string of hotels and restaurants and hope excess tourism doesn't ruin the natural wildlife of Jim Corbett National Park.
On arriving at Zostel Hostel decided to have a swim in the extremely well maintained small pool.Water was extremely chill cold as although the Sun was shining the pool water was in the shade and was as cold as the night temp.After a few swim strokes walked to my room and had a hot water bath.Seems I was the only lone tourist in Zostel Corbett Hostel besides a couple of others whom i must have not met .Absolutely surprised as the " Zostel Hostel" group in India is considered the largest and best Hostel franchisee in India.Seems " Zostel Corbett " is their only loss making Hostel in the group and hope it is revived or might otherwise close down.Huge property that in advertisement's showcased a high class gymnasium, indoor games and swimming pool .Now only the swimming pool is functioning and being a businessman myself the " Zostel Corbett" Hostel failure has proved the fact that there is no formulae for guaranteeing business success akin to predicting the success of a film.I have lived in upteen hostels/ hotels/ homestays across the Globe and India and should say " Zostel Corbett " was the loneliest hostel i have lived in akin to being marooned on a uninhabited island.Robinson Crusoe ? Travel educates.
After a bathe walked towards the elephant/ Camel joy ride locale and later lunch was at the local dhabba specializing in Muradabadi chicken Biryani cooked in a large tandoori type utensil.Excellent quality biryani at only Rs 120 was unbelievable .After lunch just relaxed on the Internet.Dinner was parcel order from the same Dhabba service that I had ordered yesterday,Mutton massala/ Chappati followed by icecream for dessert.
Wednesday (20/11/2024) Ramnagar to Haldwani :- Sleep time seems to have decreased without effecting my physical well being.So far so good.May the horse be with you ! Today i would be boarding the train from Haldwani to Dehradun,a overnight train journey. Had early morning tea at the local Dhabba on the main road outside Zostel Hostel. Omelette/ Tea cost Rs 70 and after ages listened to the local villagers discussing their lives.Suddenly spotted a guard with a rifle coming out of the Sal forest tree's situated on the opposite side of the road.On inquiry was told that a tiger had killed a woman wood cutter on Tuesday Nov 5th and on further inquiry got to know that the lady killed was the mother of the tea seller selling tea on the main road.Didn't spot the tiger but came across footprints of a tiger.
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| Didn't spot any " BIG CATS" but spotted the prey species like Chital ,Sambar and wild boar.Only carnivores we spotted were a pair of Jackals. |
On arriving at Zostel Hostel decided to have a swim in the extremely well maintained small pool.Water was extremely chill cold as although the Sun was shining the pool water was in the shade and was as cold as the night temp.After a few swim strokes walked to my room and had a hot water bath.Seems I was the only lone tourist in Zostel Corbett Hostel besides a couple of others whom i must have not met .Absolutely surprised as the " Zostel Hostel" group in India is considered the largest and best Hostel franchisee in India.Seems " Zostel Corbett " is their only loss making Hostel in the group and hope it is revived or might otherwise close down.Huge property that in advertisement's showcased a high class gymnasium, indoor games and swimming pool .Now only the swimming pool is functioning and being a businessman myself the " Zostel Corbett" Hostel failure has proved the fact that there is no formulae for guaranteeing business success akin to predicting the success of a film.I have lived in upteen hostels/ hotels/ homestays across the Globe and India and should say " Zostel Corbett " was the loneliest hostel i have lived in akin to being marooned on a uninhabited island.Robinson Crusoe ? Travel educates.
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| After returning back to " Zostel Hostel " from the Jim Corbett National Park tiger safari had a ice cold swim in the classic swimming pool of Zostel Hostel. |
After a bathe walked towards the elephant/ Camel joy ride locale and later lunch was at the local dhabba specializing in Muradabadi chicken Biryani cooked in a large tandoori type utensil.Excellent quality biryani at only Rs 120 was unbelievable .After lunch just relaxed on the Internet.Dinner was parcel order from the same Dhabba service that I had ordered yesterday,Mutton massala/ Chappati followed by icecream for dessert.
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| At " Jim Corbett Museum". Nestled within the verdant surroundings of lush green Kaladhungi village, the Jim Corbett Museum transcends its role as a mere museum. It stands as a tribute to the life and accomplishments of Jim Corbett, a hunter-turned-conservationist whose pivotal role in advocating wildlife conservation remains unparalleled. Situated in Kaladhungi, a mere 30 km from the Ramnagar town, the museum is an essential destination for those intrigued by wildlife, conservation, or the history of Corbett Tiger Reserve. " If visiting Jim Corbett National Park in Ramnagar do visit this historical museum which was once the former winter home of Jim Corbett now converted to a museum." Gurney House " on Ayarpatta hill of Nainital was Jim Corbett's summer home. |
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| Boarding the bus in Ramnagar Town for the 30 Km journey to Kaladhunghi. |
Wednesday (20/11/2024) Ramnagar to Haldwani :- Sleep time seems to have decreased without effecting my physical well being.So far so good.May the horse be with you ! Today i would be boarding the train from Haldwani to Dehradun,a overnight train journey. Had early morning tea at the local Dhabba on the main road outside Zostel Hostel. Omelette/ Tea cost Rs 70 and after ages listened to the local villagers discussing their lives.Suddenly spotted a guard with a rifle coming out of the Sal forest tree's situated on the opposite side of the road.On inquiry was told that a tiger had killed a woman wood cutter on Tuesday Nov 5th and on further inquiry got to know that the lady killed was the mother of the tea seller selling tea on the main road.Didn't spot the tiger but came across footprints of a tiger.
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| Bust of Jim Corbett on the lawn of his former winter home in Kaladhunghi now converted to a museum. |
Spoke to the young man Shri Rajendra.Rawat who was surprisingly literate in English language and who was philosophical on life and death saying it was his mothers destiny to be attacked and killed by a tiger.Guards roam in the village jungle with a rifle.Seems there has always been a few occasional rare cases of tiger attacks on wood cutters in the buffer zones of Jim Corbett National Park of which Dhikuli village is one such buffer zone .
At 0900 hrs bid goodbye to " Zostel Corbett " hostel and Dhikuli village, the most unique backpackers hostel I have lived in during my travels across India and the Globe.
Felt i owned the entire palatial village estate including a plush private swimming pool.At " Zostel Hostel " at times felt like a pampered " HNI( High Networth Individual).Hope I am not one of its last guests and this hostel rises up again to full capacity as a backpacker hostel like the Phoenix. Boarded a auto rickshaw at a rental of Rs 200 and at 0920 hrs was dropped at the bus stand in Ramnagar.The ticket fare to " Choti Haldwani " in Kaladhunghi was only Rs 50 in comparison to the Rs 200 autorickshaw fare.Private taxi and autorickshaw fares are very exorbitant in hill stations and tourist resorts especially for a " Solo Traveller ". In a group the taxi or autorickshaw fare could be shared . AT 1015 hrs alighted the bus at " Choti Haldwani " bus stop and after a look around inquired the entrance gate to " Jim Corbett Museum " not realizing it was situated just on the opposite road of the bus stand.A fruit seller stall was near the bus stand and after purchasing a custard apple requested him to keep my luggage while I visited " Jim Corbett Museum ".He agreed to the same and after depositing my bags walked across the road and on a payment of Rs 50 as entrance fee visited " Jim Corbett Museum ".
The museum which was originally his winter house has been maintained in its original design and architecture. The museum exhibits the life and times of Jim Corbett and after visiting the museum learnt about the versatile talents of the former Big game hunter and later Conservationist. The natural World knows Jim Corbett as a hunter of man eating tigers and later as a Conservationist ,but, he was more that just a " Big Game" hunter.He was a very influential and financially prosperous Indian Britisher of his era being on first name terms with Vice Roy of India Lord Linlithgow .He was also into photography , taxidermy and writing with " Man Eaters of Kumaon " being his International best seller, translated into many languages.After the museum visit walked across the road, collected my bags and after a short wait at 1220 hrs boarded the bus to Haldwani. Was lucky to get a seat as the bus gradually got packed with passengers.Ticket fare was only Rs 30. At 1300 hrs reached Haldwani bus stand,a absolutely crowded city with narrow roads.Inquired directions to the train station which was a long walk with the weather being warm.Lunch was " Butter chicken/ Rumali Roti" in " Shama Restaurant" , considered the best moderately priced non- veg restaurant in Haldwani.
After lunch walked the short distance to Haldwani railway station and after parking my bag at a stall whiled away time on the internet.Today it was State legislature election in the State of Maharashtra and if in Mumbai would have cast my vote.Later in the evening just loafed aimlessly around Station road, Tikoniya road and Banbhoolpura road in close proximity to the railway station.Had a trim shave at " Star Saloon" on Station road and later to while away my time nursed a small peg of vodka/ Coke at plush " Jagdish Bar and Restaurant " on Banbhoolpura road.Loved this restaurant for its artistic internal decor having a fish tank and classic artwork of a seductive woman pouring wine to a luscious man and a scooter hung from the restaurant ceiling facing the painting.Subtle message I presume is " Don't drink and drive ".Night temp of Haldwani was cool and pleasant.The " 14119 KGM DDN EXP" was on time at 2015 hrs but my bogie " S3" was way ahead from the indicator sight and hence had to do a 100 meters sprint to board the train.It was cold and wearing my jacket the nomad lay down on the sleeping Berth.Ambient temp was 13*c and I wonder what was the ambient temp of the " A/ C compartment " of the train ?
At 0900 hrs bid goodbye to " Zostel Corbett " hostel and Dhikuli village, the most unique backpackers hostel I have lived in during my travels across India and the Globe.
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| Crowded Haldwani City. |
Felt i owned the entire palatial village estate including a plush private swimming pool.At " Zostel Hostel " at times felt like a pampered " HNI( High Networth Individual).Hope I am not one of its last guests and this hostel rises up again to full capacity as a backpacker hostel like the Phoenix. Boarded a auto rickshaw at a rental of Rs 200 and at 0920 hrs was dropped at the bus stand in Ramnagar.The ticket fare to " Choti Haldwani " in Kaladhunghi was only Rs 50 in comparison to the Rs 200 autorickshaw fare.Private taxi and autorickshaw fares are very exorbitant in hill stations and tourist resorts especially for a " Solo Traveller ". In a group the taxi or autorickshaw fare could be shared . AT 1015 hrs alighted the bus at " Choti Haldwani " bus stop and after a look around inquired the entrance gate to " Jim Corbett Museum " not realizing it was situated just on the opposite road of the bus stand.A fruit seller stall was near the bus stand and after purchasing a custard apple requested him to keep my luggage while I visited " Jim Corbett Museum ".He agreed to the same and after depositing my bags walked across the road and on a payment of Rs 50 as entrance fee visited " Jim Corbett Museum ".
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| Sightseeing Banbhoolpura road in close proximity to Haldwani railway station. |
The museum which was originally his winter house has been maintained in its original design and architecture. The museum exhibits the life and times of Jim Corbett and after visiting the museum learnt about the versatile talents of the former Big game hunter and later Conservationist. The natural World knows Jim Corbett as a hunter of man eating tigers and later as a Conservationist ,but, he was more that just a " Big Game" hunter.He was a very influential and financially prosperous Indian Britisher of his era being on first name terms with Vice Roy of India Lord Linlithgow .He was also into photography , taxidermy and writing with " Man Eaters of Kumaon " being his International best seller, translated into many languages.After the museum visit walked across the road, collected my bags and after a short wait at 1220 hrs boarded the bus to Haldwani. Was lucky to get a seat as the bus gradually got packed with passengers.Ticket fare was only Rs 30. At 1300 hrs reached Haldwani bus stand,a absolutely crowded city with narrow roads.Inquired directions to the train station which was a long walk with the weather being warm.Lunch was " Butter chicken/ Rumali Roti" in " Shama Restaurant" , considered the best moderately priced non- veg restaurant in Haldwani.
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| Lavish dinner at " Jagdish Bar and Restaurant " on Banbhoolpura road of Haldwani City before boarding the train to Dehradun. Marvelled at the art decor of this liquor watering rendezvous for thirsty customers. |
After lunch walked the short distance to Haldwani railway station and after parking my bag at a stall whiled away time on the internet.Today it was State legislature election in the State of Maharashtra and if in Mumbai would have cast my vote.Later in the evening just loafed aimlessly around Station road, Tikoniya road and Banbhoolpura road in close proximity to the railway station.Had a trim shave at " Star Saloon" on Station road and later to while away my time nursed a small peg of vodka/ Coke at plush " Jagdish Bar and Restaurant " on Banbhoolpura road.Loved this restaurant for its artistic internal decor having a fish tank and classic artwork of a seductive woman pouring wine to a luscious man and a scooter hung from the restaurant ceiling facing the painting.Subtle message I presume is " Don't drink and drive ".Night temp of Haldwani was cool and pleasant.The " 14119 KGM DDN EXP" was on time at 2015 hrs but my bogie " S3" was way ahead from the indicator sight and hence had to do a 100 meters sprint to board the train.It was cold and wearing my jacket the nomad lay down on the sleeping Berth.Ambient temp was 13*c and I wonder what was the ambient temp of the " A/ C compartment " of the train ?
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| FOREST RESEARCH INSTITUTE( INDIA) CAMPUS : - Pre- Independence designed bungalow houses inside Forest Research Institute of India campus grounds.Forest Research Institute Dehradun is among the oldest institutions of its kind established in 1906. The institute's history is virtually synonymous with the evolution and development of scientific forestry, not only in India, but over the entire sub-continent. At the time of writing more than a dozen Hindi movies have been filmed on this sprawling 450 hectares estate.Some of these films are , Dulhan Ek Raat Ki, Krishna Cottage, Rehnaa Hai Terre Dil Mein, 404, Paan Singh Tomar, Nanban, Student of the Year, Student of the Year 2, Dilli Khabar, Yaara, Genius, Dear Daddy and Maharshi where majorly of these film's shooting was done in this campus. |
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| Dehradun landmark " Ghanta Ghar ". This Clocktower is 85 meters tall and has 6 faces with the clock in working condition showing exact time. Clocktowerwas inaugurated in 1953 by Lal Bahadur Shastri.Names of Indian Freedom Fighters engraved in gold plaque is all over the Clocktower surface. A landmark of Dehradun city situated on Paltan Bazaar road. |
Thursday(21/11/2024) Dehradun to Mussoorie: - At 0230 hrs reached Haridwar where our compartment almost got empty .Absolutely filthy train and horrible toilets.Luckily a short overnight journey in chill cold weather of 12* C. Reached Dehradun exactly on scheduled time of 0420 hrs on a chill cold morning. After sitting for a while on the common seats went to the cloak room and deposited my 2 bags at a rental of Rs 30/ bag and later checked into the V.I.P waiting room at a rental of Rs 30/ hr.Had the luxury of warmth in the " VIP Waiting room" as also a cup of tea costing Rs 20,absolute luxuries on a chill early morning arrival in Dehradun. May the horse be with you ! After my short rest in the " VIP Lounge" made my way out of the station into chill cold Dehradun city. As usual asking directions and passed alongside the Mussoorie Taxi stand and bus stand booking office situated facing each other on opposite sides of the road.Asked directions to Dehradun's landmark " Ghanta Ghar ( Clock Tower)" and had a long 1 Km walk along Paltan road the business locale of Dehradun. All shops were closed and early morning breakfast was " Dehradun Kachori" at a street stall costing only Rs 30.Walking further came across a juice shop and I was their first customer of the day for fresh orange juice.From the juice shop it was a short walk to " Clock Tower ( Ghanta Ghar)" where the locale was bustling with traffic and people.
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| External view of " Indian Military Academy " in Dehradun. Established in 1932 it is one of the oldest Military academy in India and trains officers for the Indian Army. On completion of their course in this academy the officers are directly enrolled as Lieutenant in the armed forces. |
Came across shared vans and on inquiry was told that the last stop of these vans was " Prem Nagar".Decided to go on a joy ride in the packed shared taxi costing only Rs 20 and at least get a view of Dehradun city.A young lady in the van was helpful in answering a few of my tourist questions and hence got to know that the " Forest Research Institue " and " Indian Military academy were on the taxi route.Alighted the taxi near " I.M.A" and walked across towards the entrance.Photography was strictly profited even from the road as the guard informed me after I clicked a few photo's of the entrance gate.Boarded a bus from " I.M.A" and alighted at the gate of " Forest Research ".Entry fee was Rs 15 and on entering the palatial campus that had British era bungalows and roads named during the British era suddenly realized it was a long walk of over 1 Km to the main administrative building and museum of the Forest Research Institue.
Returned back to the gate and the guard requested a motorcyclist to give me a lift to the administration building.
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| Peak traffic in Dehradun . |
Hence thanks to motorcyclist Mr Gaurav Rawat got a brief tour of the palatial resident bungalows as also finally being dropped at the administration building.As usual got busy in photography and was amazed at the size of " Forest Research Institue " complex which was akin to a town inside Dehradun city.Returning back to the main gate was another problem as not even a hired autorickshaw was available. Luckily a motorcyclist was passing alongside and requested Mr Abhishek. Thakur for a lift and he dropped me at the entrance gate.Later withdrew some cash from the ATM machine of my bank situated inside the sprawling " Forest Research Institue ".Boarded a crowded bus and unwittingly overshot my alighting stop of " Ghanta Ghar".Was guided to a shared autorickshaw and on the way nearing the station alighted at Gandhi road on spotting a non- vegetarian restaurant.A early lunch of " Mutton masala/ butter Nan" was in " Punjabi Dhabha",a well known non vegetarian restaurant in Dehradun. After lunch walked the short distance to the railway station and collected my luggage from the cloak room. The Mussoorie bus and taxi stand is just a short distance from the railway station and decided to board a shared taxi @ Rs 380/ passenger with a total of 4 passengers.The taxi driver took me for a stationary ride making me wait for about half an hour to find another 3 passengers.Finally I cut down my patience losses and bid the taxi driver adieu and walked across to the common bus stand.
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| Early lunch at landmark Punjabi Dhaba on Gandhi Road. Open 24 hrs . |
If I had to not waste time at the taxi stand could have boarded the Mussoorie bus that took off just as I arrived at the bus terminus.Had to wait in a queue for approximately one and a half hours before being issued a ticket.Finally at 1330 hrs the bus began its journey to Mussoorie town. A typical mountain drive although the mountain curves had more sharp S - bends that the Nainital mountain climb.This bus was heading towards Mussoorie Picture Palace bus station which is on the east side of Mussoorie Mall whereas my destination was Mussoorie Library road bus station situated on the west side of the Mussoorie mall road. Both on locales opposite ends of Mussoorie town connected by the Mussoorie Mall road and the Dehradun-Mussoorie highway.The conductor assisted me in advising me to alight mid-way at the diversion road from where I boarded a taxi costing me Rs 200 for the short uphill drive to " goSTOPS" Mussoorie Library road . On this travel I was spending most of my budget on travel expenses, outrageous for a " Solo Traveller". I find First World Europe and High income Asian countries cheaper regarding convenience transport for "Solo travellers" in comparison to my experience in Nainital , Jim Corbett park and now Mussoorie. No wonder almost every backpacker drives a hired 2- wheeler in these hill stations otherwise it's a lavish travel expenditure.I would have hired a 2- wheeler as i did in Laos but that was flat roads and not curving mountain roads and as a survivor of 3 death defying motorcycle accidents understand that the odds of surviving my next accident is ----- ? .Hence avoided hiring a 2- wheeler in Nainital although i love biking but now only within Mumbai city.May the horse be with you ! From the mountain road it was another downward walk to " goSTOPS" Mussoorie.
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| " goSTOPS " Hostel at " Hussain Gunj Library road " on Mussoorie Library road highway.Situated at the peak of a hillock having a bird's eye view of Doon Valley and the Garhwal mountain range of the Himalayas. NOTE:- In Mussoorie " goSTOPS" has 2 hostels. The other hostel besides this is" goSTOPS " Picture Palace Road. |
At the reception hostel manager Miss Shagufta. Siddique did the necessary formalities and allotted me my dormitory room " No 205 D " having 6 beds with attached bathe.Room had a beautiful view of the valley below our mountain top . Later strolled around the small hill side property whose main claim to tourist fame is its scenic location on Library road highway facing the Garhwal mountains and Doon Valley( Dehradun city) below.Met two young travellers from Indore Mr Akhil.Gore and Rishab.Pol ,both cousins and touring on hired 2- wheelers. Got a practical idea of the tourist sites realizing I would have to hire a " Scooter Taxi" to travel across Mussoorie after spending a fortune on scooter taxi's in Nainital.
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| Dinner on the " BALCONY VIEW" hill top lawn of " goSTOPS " Library Road. View of Doon Valley ( Dehradun) and Garhwal mountains on a cold clear night ." goSTOPS " has 2 pet resident dogs and here is " Brownie" my non - human companion. |
Young Mr Akhil.Gore was a Yoga instructor by profession.Later on inquiry was happy to know a restaurant was in operation on the highway road just a short uphill walk from " goSTOPS " Hostel.Visited the shop/ restaurant and longing for fish curry rice ordered the same to be delivered to the hostel.As the Sun set from cool warm sunshine the weather abruptly changed to chill cold akin to Nainital and Dehradun today at dawn.Incredible India.At night the view of Doon Valley(Dehradun city ) from " goSTOPS" is indescribable. No wonder Mussoorie is called the " Queen of the Hills".Dinner was at 1900 hrs next to the heater near the reception table.Costing Rs 560 the fish curry rice was actually meant for 2 individual's.Since leaving home in Mumbai for the first time tasted my staple dish of " Fish curry/ Rice and kept some curry / fish in the hostel fridge. Left over waste and rice was fed to the 2 semi' stray dogs of the hostel.Due to intense cold the dogs of Nainital and Mussoorie grow a thick coat of fur and are larger in size in comparison to stray dogs in Mumbai..It was chill cold at 7* c akin to Nainital.The view from my room at night was amazing, akin to being on a plane approaching the city of Dehradun(Doon Valley). Incredible sub- continent India.
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| Kempty Falls.A few adventurous have a dip in the chill cold water at the base of this beautiful Waterfalls. |
Friday (22/11/2024) Mussoorie:- Early morning breakfast was " Penang Style" ,scrambled eggs and yesterday's leftover cat fish curry .Was planning to visit Mussoorie Mall road which was 2 Km away from ' goSTOPS " Hostel and hoping to get a " Scooter taxi" or a lift .Luckily a local Mr Suresh Singh gave me a lift to " Library Road bus stand".As usual inquired with locals the distances of various popular tourist sites in Mussoorie most importantly Kempty Falls which is 15 Km from " Library Road " bus station.Out of nowhere a jeep van appeared on the highway and a local advised me to board this shared taxi to " Kempty Falls". A totally unplanned morning agenda led this nomadic traveller on the road to the one and only " Kempty Falls" in Mussoorie. At 0915 hrs reached the main mountain bypass road leading to Kempty Falls with the shared taxi bill amounting to Rs 100.I was the lone tourist early morning on Kempty Falls road.Had tea in a restaurant and befriended a vagabond cow that regularly stands at the entrance path of " Hills Pizza cafe & Restaurant".Seems this particular cow comes daily to this restaurant and won't leave unless given some food.
Reminded me of my pet free living pet crow " Tahatsu" back home in Mumbai.May the horse be with you ! Entered the passageway leading to the cable car terminus for the cable ride from the top of the mountain road to the base of Kempty Falls.Entrance to " Kempty Falls Amusement Park " was Rs 250.It was a short flight on the cable car to the base of Kempty Falls.Tourists were just arriving and the view of the gushing Waterfalls was amazing.Reminded me a bit of Victoria falls in Zimbabwe/ Zambia,really splendid although small in height and width in comparison to one of the natural wonders of the World, Victoria Falls.On the opposite side of Kempty Falls is the water amusement park having boat rides on a small artificial pond as well as a ,swimming pool replenished with the waterfalls water. Zip lining and Swing' s were the Aerial adventure sports .A young couple from Hyderabad was in awe of me akin to a celebrity and Mr Anveesh.Thotaa a C/ A by profession made a video of me akin to a film star later taking a group photo of me along with his wife.I was reminded of Actor/ producer Karan .Johar's hilarious talk at a art show discussion in Mumbai when he recalled a embarrassing incident in London when a couple asked him to take their photograph without acknowledging his celibrity status.This happens only in London ! Everyone knows celebrities have a huge ego complex and i loved Karan Johar's laugh at himself.
I was happy of being a inspiration to a young executive couple.I am sure my travelogues have definitely been a inspiration to many readers as not a large percentage of the human race can claim to have visited 100 country's and entire India." Braggers Rights Club " ,here i arrive.
At Kempty Falls the most adventurous tourists had a dip below the Waterfall in chill cold water temp something I had experienced at " Zostel Corbett " swimming pool in Dhikuli village of Ramnagar.
At 1200 hrs made my exit from Kempty Falls Amusement Park and my biggest worry was getting a shared taxi for the 15 Km road journey back to Mussoorie.
Luck was in my favour and after a short walk got a shared taxi heading to Dehradun and alighted at Library Road.Nomadic low budget travellers are adept in the art of travel survival.May the horse be with you ! Inquiring directions walked the length of Library road and got my first glimpse of the urban town life of Mussoorie. houses and hotels in close proximity to each other,a concrete jungle in the midst of forest mountain hills.Passed alongside landmark " Savoy Hotel" and finally arrived at " Library Chowk",having a lifesize statue of Mahatma Gandhi at a corner of the Chowk and hence also called Gandhi Chowk with the locale crowded with tourists.There is the prominent landmark Sikh Gurudwara Sahib Trust building at Library Chowk. Numerous cycle rickshaw taxi's were parked at one end of Library Chowk as also scooter taxi riders and scooters/ motorcycles for hire.Rental for a scooter was Rs 500/ day and for Royal Enfield motorcycles Rs 1000+/ Day .Lunch was " Pahadi chicken/ Pahadi rice at " Raj Kamal" restaurant on Mussoorie Mall road.After lunch the major scare was the long 2 Km downhill walk to " goSTOPS " at Hussain Gunj on Library road highway . Walking downhill arrived at the Mussoorie bus terminus where a bus was about to depart to Dehradun. Requested the driver to drop me at Hussain Gunj to which he agreed and finally landed at home away from home " goSTOPS " Library Road. A young lady student from Bihar had checked into our dormitory. After a hot water bathe relaxed on a suspended rocking chair in the scenic garden panorama viewpoint of " goSTOPS " Library Road hostel.I had now got accustomed to 6-8* C ambient temperatures of the hill stations of Uttaranchal. May the horse be with you !In the evening a young doctor Dr Ashutosh.Jaiswal checked into the room and so from being a lone guest yesterday we were now 3 guests in " Room No 205".A big crowd with their scooters and bikes arrived at the hostel today being a weekend.
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| This cow is a daily visitor to "Hills Pizza cafe & Restaurant: on Kempty Falls road for its breakfast. |
Reminded me of my pet free living pet crow " Tahatsu" back home in Mumbai.May the horse be with you ! Entered the passageway leading to the cable car terminus for the cable ride from the top of the mountain road to the base of Kempty Falls.Entrance to " Kempty Falls Amusement Park " was Rs 250.It was a short flight on the cable car to the base of Kempty Falls.Tourists were just arriving and the view of the gushing Waterfalls was amazing.Reminded me a bit of Victoria falls in Zimbabwe/ Zambia,really splendid although small in height and width in comparison to one of the natural wonders of the World, Victoria Falls.On the opposite side of Kempty Falls is the water amusement park having boat rides on a small artificial pond as well as a ,swimming pool replenished with the waterfalls water. Zip lining and Swing' s were the Aerial adventure sports .A young couple from Hyderabad was in awe of me akin to a celebrity and Mr Anveesh.Thotaa a C/ A by profession made a video of me akin to a film star later taking a group photo of me along with his wife.I was reminded of Actor/ producer Karan .Johar's hilarious talk at a art show discussion in Mumbai when he recalled a embarrassing incident in London when a couple asked him to take their photograph without acknowledging his celibrity status.This happens only in London ! Everyone knows celebrities have a huge ego complex and i loved Karan Johar's laugh at himself.
I was happy of being a inspiration to a young executive couple.I am sure my travelogues have definitely been a inspiration to many readers as not a large percentage of the human race can claim to have visited 100 country's and entire India." Braggers Rights Club " ,here i arrive.
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| A topographical view of " Kempty Waterfalls Amusement Park ". Boating, swimming,Ziplining and Zip Swings facilities inside this Amusement Park. |
At Kempty Falls the most adventurous tourists had a dip below the Waterfall in chill cold water temp something I had experienced at " Zostel Corbett " swimming pool in Dhikuli village of Ramnagar.
At 1200 hrs made my exit from Kempty Falls Amusement Park and my biggest worry was getting a shared taxi for the 15 Km road journey back to Mussoorie.
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| View of concrete jungle on Library Chowk side of Mussoorie.Library chowk is the West end of the 1.5 Km long Mussoorie Mall road. Plush hotels & common housing. |
Luck was in my favour and after a short walk got a shared taxi heading to Dehradun and alighted at Library Road.Nomadic low budget travellers are adept in the art of travel survival.May the horse be with you ! Inquiring directions walked the length of Library road and got my first glimpse of the urban town life of Mussoorie. houses and hotels in close proximity to each other,a concrete jungle in the midst of forest mountain hills.Passed alongside landmark " Savoy Hotel" and finally arrived at " Library Chowk",having a lifesize statue of Mahatma Gandhi at a corner of the Chowk and hence also called Gandhi Chowk with the locale crowded with tourists.There is the prominent landmark Sikh Gurudwara Sahib Trust building at Library Chowk. Numerous cycle rickshaw taxi's were parked at one end of Library Chowk as also scooter taxi riders and scooters/ motorcycles for hire.Rental for a scooter was Rs 500/ day and for Royal Enfield motorcycles Rs 1000+/ Day .Lunch was " Pahadi chicken/ Pahadi rice at " Raj Kamal" restaurant on Mussoorie Mall road.After lunch the major scare was the long 2 Km downhill walk to " goSTOPS " at Hussain Gunj on Library road highway . Walking downhill arrived at the Mussoorie bus terminus where a bus was about to depart to Dehradun. Requested the driver to drop me at Hussain Gunj to which he agreed and finally landed at home away from home " goSTOPS " Library Road. A young lady student from Bihar had checked into our dormitory. After a hot water bathe relaxed on a suspended rocking chair in the scenic garden panorama viewpoint of " goSTOPS " Library Road hostel.I had now got accustomed to 6-8* C ambient temperatures of the hill stations of Uttaranchal. May the horse be with you !In the evening a young doctor Dr Ashutosh.Jaiswal checked into the room and so from being a lone guest yesterday we were now 3 guests in " Room No 205".A big crowd with their scooters and bikes arrived at the hostel today being a weekend.
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| ON MUSSOORIE MALL ROAD: Mussoorie is geographically located on a 15 km long horseshoe ridge with the grand Himalayas snowpeaks as a backdrop, the colonial hill resort of Mussoorie spreads across at a height of 2,005.5 m(6600 ft approx) above sea level. Mussoorie offers superb scenic view of peaks of the Himalayas in Tehri Garhwal. Mussoorie is famous because of some of the most spectacular views of the Himalayas. Hills which form layer after layer to the horizon, where snow capped mountain peaks are visible as though you can touch them. The magnificent peaks of Srikantha, Bandar Poonch, the Gangotri group and the Chaukhamba present a mesmerizing panorama. Mussoorie is just 34 kms from Dehradun overlooking the majestic Doon valley to its south and the impressive Himalayas up north. The mountains attract climbers, trekkers and adventure sport enthusiasts .At night with the city lights shimmering in the distance below the mountains the view of Dehradun (Doon Valley) from our hostel "goSTOPS" library road is akin to being on a plane landing onto Dehradun city. |
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| Professionals Mr Shiva.Sivastava a interior designer and Mr Omkar.Kammar, a architect stayed overnight at" goSTOPS " and here are about to mount their " RE Himalaya" bikes for their onward bike cruising. They have travelled across India on their bikes.2- wheelers are best vehicles to travel across the mountainious narrow roads of Mussoorie. |
Saturday (23/11/224) Mussoorie:- Night temp had dropped to 5* C,chill cold.Breakfast at 0815 hrs was at " Rawat Ji Fast food" ,a small store cum dhabba situated on the highway road just above " goSTOPS " .Excellent breakfast facing the mountains and Doon Valley.After breakfast walked downhill to " goSTOPS " and came across 2 young bikers Mr Shiva.Sivastava a interior designer by profession and Mr Omkar.Kammar a architect by profession.Both were doing a motorcycle circuit of travel on their " Royal Enfield Himalaya " bikes.They had rented these bikes in Dehradun and had stayed overnight at " goSTOPS " and were leaving in the morning as were other riders from different groups.Got a lift from a local Mr Sonn.Singh to Mall Road through a different steep uphill road that led to " Convent of Jesus and Mary " school.Passed alongside " Convent of Jesus and Mary(1922)." girls school and finally reached Mall Road parking lot in close proximity to the " Gun Point " cable car ticket booking office and boarding/alighting terminal.Decided to ride up the cable car to " Gun Point" .Ticket cost was Rs 270 and it was a pleasant ride to the second highest peak in Mussoorie called " Gun Hill" or " Gun Point" situated at a altitude of 2020 mtrs( 6640 ft).During the British Raj cannon shots were fired from this hill to indicate the time of the day and in the present era used as a water storage site for Mussorie Town.We were one of the first tourist arrivals by cable car as avid trekkers also trek to this peak.Although there was bright sunshine the air had some hazy mist and hence view of the Himalayan mountain chain was blurred unlike the absolute clear view from " Himalaya Darshan " in Nainital. The weather was warm and removed my trademark sweater ,a piece of my attire that was lying in my closet at home in Mumbai for a long time.Strolled around the small amusement square on Gun Hill having games and eatable stalls and later went to " Telescopic Viewpoint" .
I was their first customer and being tourist off-season business was slack.
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| Inside Anglican " Christ Church " built in 1836.My first Christmas Tree of 2024 |
There were 3 telescopes installed at different locations facing different mountain locales on this small square along with 3 different telescope guides.On payment of Rs 50 was shown 1) St Georges College2) Regency Manor 3) Clock Tower in Landour 4) Lal Tibba peak 5)St Pauls Church 6) Cricketer Sachin Tendulkar Mansion 7) Ranipur Village 8)Nag Tibba Trekking peak and 9 ) Garhwal wall which was India's miniature equivalent of the " Great Wall of China ".The Doordarshan Telivision Tower is the highest mechanical structure in Mussoorie erected near the peak of Lal Tibba. Tasted a local vegetarian snack dish " Hot Kachalu chat" at " Super Cafe" ,the largest cafe on Gun Point hill.Finally at approximately 1215 hrs made my way to the cable car and after a short wait boarded the Ropeway cable car back to Mall Road Mussoorie. There were numerous cycle rickshaws for carting tourists to Library Chowk end of Mall Road.Had a nice walk along Mall Library Road towards Library Chowk passing alongside hotels, restaurants and houses.Came across a large footpath market alongside a road leading upwards across a hill overlooking the Mall.Walked along that ascending road that had a string of shops selling clothing material, mostly winter clothing. On inquiry was told that there was a church further up the inclined slope of the hill.Finally arrived at the church which externally resembled a abandoned unmaintained edifice.The main gate was closed and honestly resembled a totally abandoned uncared building.
A local told me that the main entrance gate was at the entrance of the church a short distance ahead.
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| View of buildings from " Gunpoint/ Gunhill " |
Entered the premises of the church and having done my travel research i was sure this was " Christ Church" ,one of the oldest church in the Himalayan region.Reminded me of a large historic Catholic church i had visited in Krakow in Poland where on entering the church i was the only person inside the massive church edifice.Same feeling engulfed me on entering this historic compound and on spotting some houses in a building on the boundary of the church compound just called out loudly to any one listening.My voice was heard and the caretaker of " Christ Church" Mr Jaya Dev Prasad stepped out of his house and confirmed this was Anglican(Protestant) " Christ Church " of Mussoorie built in 1836 by the British.On my request he agreed to show me the interior of the church.On entering the historic church was surprised at its excellent interior maintenance in comparison to the buildings shabby external structure and horrible abandoned compound maintenance.Saw my first decorated Christmas tree of 2024 inside historic " Christ Church".After saying a short prayer also filmed a short video .Thanking caretaker Mr Jayadev .Prasad a Hindu Pandit by religion as also donating a small sum of money to the church made my exit onto the Mall.I had now visited 3 historic churches named " Christ Church " in India.
The first is my own school church at Byculla in Bombay named after its church which is the historic " Christ Church(1833)" of Bombay now Mumbai .Second was " Christ Church(1844)" in Shimla also situated in the Mall of Shimla.Hence my school " Christ Church" of Bombay now Mumbai is the oldest of the 3 Christ Church's affiliated to the Church of North India.
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| Scenic Mussoorie Mall Road with its unique Cycle autorickshaw's. |
And now here in Mussoorie i had accidentally discovered " Christ Church" ,Mussoorie. Truth is stranger than fiction.The Mall was crowded with tourists and lunch at 1400 hrs was " Chicken Biryani" at the now familiar " Raj Kamal" restaurant.After lunch , dessert was a cone icecream and after a short rest in the public sitting space decided to do the downhill trek to " goSTOPS " hostel.Weather was now chill with Sunshine and hazy visibility, excellent for a long walk.Descending a mountain road is easy and didn't feel the almost 2 Km downhill descent.Finally at " goStops" I was now the oldest resident guest in age as well as number of days stayed.My room was empty, the guests having checked out and the hostel was bustling with the arrival of new guests.I was a " ROLLING STONES" among the guests at " goSTOPS". May the horse be with you !A new guest arrived in the room late at night.
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| In " WRITERS BAR " of Savoy Hotel.Etched on the wall of this corner of "Writers Bar" are the names of popular well known writers who have visited this bar The Savoy, is a historic luxury hotel at present owned by Mr. Kishore Kaya and Managed by the ITC Hotels. Established in 1902, built in English Gothic architecture style mostly in wood, the hotel is spread over 11 acres (45,000 m2) . If visiting Mussoorie and intend going on the occasional money splurge then a visit to historic Savoy Hotel is mandatory,still better is a tippler at the famed " WRITERS BAR". |
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| Historic " Picture Palace " theatre built in 1912 situated on East end of Mussoorie Mall Road. Mussoorie's first theatre.Hence the name of this locality as "Picture Palace Mussoorie". |
Sunday (24/11/2024)Mussoorie:- A sleepless night as lots of activity in hostel garden Saturday partying .Ambient night temp had dropped to 4*c to which I had now got accustomed to by wearing warm thermal covering at night.
Although awake almost the entire night officially got dressed at 0800 hrs and headed out of " goSTOPS " whose car park was housefull with motorcycles and cars.Week end partying.May the horse be with you ! Thanks to stranger Mr Suraj.Lall got the uphill 1.5 Km lift from hostel to Library Chowk .
My destination was " Lovely Omelette Centre" a restaurant known all over India for preparing the best omelette in India let alone Mussoorie.
Inquiring directions seems entire Mussoorie residents knew the location of this famous omelette shop.It was a long walk along Mussoorie Mall road finally arriving at Kulri market near Mussoorie Picture Palace, where " Lovely Omelette Centre " was located.A shabby locality of Mussoorie in comparison to the plush hotels and restaurants on Library street of Mall Road.As it was early morning at 0910 hrs there was no crowd and I didn't have to wait in a queue as numerous writeups indicated.The master chef cum proprietor Mr Khurshed.Mohammed preparing the omelette's showed me newspaper cuttings of V.I.P's who have visited the restaurant for omelette. Among politicians late Prime Minister Rajiv.Gandhi has eaten from this shop as also countless film stars and seems actor Akshay.Kumar who was once a chef has come to this tiny unassuming restaurant and chopped onions/ chillies to refresh his former profession.
May the horse be with you !Ordered a " Butter cheese omelette ", the most expensive omelette costing Rs 150 which was excellent and akin to having lunch.From Kulri market it was a short downhill walk to " Picture Palace" road , the extreme east end of Mussoorie Mall Road." Picture Palace" locality was not as upscale as Library Chowk, the West end of Mussoorie Mall.Walked towards the main " Picture Palace " bus stand which was also the main taxi stand.Landmark Freemason " Lodge Dalahousie" greets travellers entering and exiting Mussoorie from " Picture Palace" highway road.Later had a stroll along " Camels Back Road" which faces Lal Tibba and the Garhwal mountain range.
Asking directions for a mountain which I presumed resembled a camel was told to walk along the mountaiside road until I reached a locale where telescope guides showed tourists the distant view points seen from Mussoorie. Was amazed to know that the famous " CAMELS BACK " mountain was not a individual seperate mountain as I had presumed but akin to a mural was a rock formation on the face of a mountain that could only be visible by binoculars / Telescope. Today weather was excellent, bright sunshine and the Himalayan Gangotri mountain was clearly visible unlike yesterday where mist blurred the view from Gunpoint viewing gallery.A telescope guide showed me a repeat of what I had seen yesterday from " Gunpoint" viewing gallery with the only addition being able to see Himalayan snow covered mountain of Gangotri clearly and also " Camel Back Mountain" .Was surprised to see that " Camel Back Mountain ", a small rock formation on the side of a mountain hillock that can be seen only with binoculars or a telescope.
After viewing " Camel Back Mountain" walked a short distance ahead until I reached Mussoorie Public school and then walked back to Picture Library Mall Road.Had a early vegetarian lunch at " The Green Vegetarian Family Restaurant" consisting of " Chole Bhature/ Lassi" costing Rs 188 .In the afternoon ambient temp was approx 14* C ,pleasant and cool with bright hot sunshine.Walking the distance back from Mall Road Picture Palace to Mall Road Library came across landmark Central Methodist Church and according to my personal opinion Mussoorie Mall Picture Palace end is less posh in comparison to Library Chowk situated on West end of Mall Road.Cycle rickshaws are a popular mode of tourist transport on Mall Library road end but not on Mall Picture Palace road as the road at Picture Palace section has steep inclines and declines .Relaxed on a bench on Mall Road with Christ Church Anglican church on the hillock above. As a student of history I always make it a point to visit any historical edifice and hence decided to visit the " Savoy Hotel" situated on Library chowk.Although once upon a time I was a big shareholder in Indian Hotels( Taj Group of Hotels) , wining or dining in 5- star hotels is not my cup of tea as I find it hard to shake of my middle class roots upbringing and only occasionally visit a 5- star hotel or stay in one. In Singapore I visited the " Raffles Hotel" bar just to learn what all this fuss about " Singapore Sling" was about and honestly i was not disappointed. The " Savoy Hotel" Mussoorie was built in 1902, much before Bombay now Mumbai's iconic Taj Mahal hotel.
In 1911 a murder scandal concerning a wealthy English lady at the Savoy Hotel put this otherwise normal hotel into International headlines attracting the attention of Authoress Dame Agatha Christie and it is presumed her first murder novel published in 1920 " The Mysterious Affair at Styles" has some inspiration from the cyanide poisoning murder case at Savoy Hotel Mussoorie that was all over the British press.A sensational murder case of its era.After this murder case the Savoy hotel fell into disrepute and was considered haunted.During its history it has also changed owners due to financial troubles but somehow survived in its original form and now after some interior decor innovations ,a thriving famous hotel under its new owner Mr Kishore. Kaya and managed by the I.T.C Hotel Group . It was a long inclined uphill walk from Library Chowk to Savoy hotel.The entrance of the hotel has grandeur and history written all over it's edifice.Reminded me of the vintage Taj Mahal hotel of Mumbai.Inquired the way to " Writers Bar" and was amazed at the stag heads lining the walls of the interior of the hotel.All these stag heads were hunting trophies collected in the vicinity of Mussoorie when hunting was a privileged sport of the elite and wealthy.Entered the famous " Writers Bar" built in 1890, much earlier than the actual hotel as it was formerly a hunting lodge cum bar.A prime exhibit was a leopard skin exhibit and a pair of elephant tusks besides deer antlers.This leopard was shot by a hunter right inside the bar where it was found sleeping akin to a cat on a table.The Australia- India test match was being shown on the giant T.V screen.All 5- Star hotels look the same internally with over the top grandeur and decor but honestly " Writers Bar" had history written all over it ,besides , the normal 5- Star grandeur.
There was a plaque mentioning eminent Writers who visited this bar which included Mussoorie's own homegrown author Mr Ruskin.Bond.
Bar executive Ms Shreshtha.Sah explained me briefly the history of " Writers Bar" also clicking a photo seated behing the plaque of prominent writers who visited this bar.
After sipping my drink and cherishing the ambiance made my way out of this majestic hotel.Akin to yesterday walked downhill all the way from Library Chowk to " goSTOPS ".On arrival at my room it was a musical chair of guests arrival and departure with 2 new guests checking in , Miss Tripti.Sarda ,a I.T. and sports journalist and Mr Amrendra.Jah a I.T professional.Manager Miss Shagufta arranged for a bonfire at night and a large group of Veterinary doctors from Gujarat living in the hostel joined the bonfire gathering.Later the guest whom I thought had left in the morning arrived after a scooter sightseeing ride.Mr Satya from Bihar was doing his PhD in physics and this made me realize that present generation Indian backpackers are mostly young high income intellectual professional's enjoying precious leisure time.Total strangers become acquaintances at hostels and at times this acquaintance could blossom into lifelong companionships.
My destination was " Lovely Omelette Centre" a restaurant known all over India for preparing the best omelette in India let alone Mussoorie.
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| Union Church of Mussoorie built in 1874 A Protestan Church situated behind " Picture Palace" at the foot of what was once called Club Hill. |
Inquiring directions seems entire Mussoorie residents knew the location of this famous omelette shop.It was a long walk along Mussoorie Mall road finally arriving at Kulri market near Mussoorie Picture Palace, where " Lovely Omelette Centre " was located.A shabby locality of Mussoorie in comparison to the plush hotels and restaurants on Library street of Mall Road.As it was early morning at 0910 hrs there was no crowd and I didn't have to wait in a queue as numerous writeups indicated.The master chef cum proprietor Mr Khurshed.Mohammed preparing the omelette's showed me newspaper cuttings of V.I.P's who have visited the restaurant for omelette. Among politicians late Prime Minister Rajiv.Gandhi has eaten from this shop as also countless film stars and seems actor Akshay.Kumar who was once a chef has come to this tiny unassuming restaurant and chopped onions/ chillies to refresh his former profession.
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| Shops and restaurants in Picture Palace Mussoorie locality. |
May the horse be with you !Ordered a " Butter cheese omelette ", the most expensive omelette costing Rs 150 which was excellent and akin to having lunch.From Kulri market it was a short downhill walk to " Picture Palace" road , the extreme east end of Mussoorie Mall Road." Picture Palace" locality was not as upscale as Library Chowk, the West end of Mussoorie Mall.Walked towards the main " Picture Palace " bus stand which was also the main taxi stand.Landmark Freemason " Lodge Dalahousie" greets travellers entering and exiting Mussoorie from " Picture Palace" highway road.Later had a stroll along " Camels Back Road" which faces Lal Tibba and the Garhwal mountain range.
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| Landmark Freemason Lodge Dalahousie. This is the main Dehradun- Mussoorie Highway road that enters/ exits from Picture Palace Road end of Mussoorie. |
Asking directions for a mountain which I presumed resembled a camel was told to walk along the mountaiside road until I reached a locale where telescope guides showed tourists the distant view points seen from Mussoorie. Was amazed to know that the famous " CAMELS BACK " mountain was not a individual seperate mountain as I had presumed but akin to a mural was a rock formation on the face of a mountain that could only be visible by binoculars / Telescope. Today weather was excellent, bright sunshine and the Himalayan Gangotri mountain was clearly visible unlike yesterday where mist blurred the view from Gunpoint viewing gallery.A telescope guide showed me a repeat of what I had seen yesterday from " Gunpoint" viewing gallery with the only addition being able to see Himalayan snow covered mountain of Gangotri clearly and also " Camel Back Mountain" .Was surprised to see that " Camel Back Mountain ", a small rock formation on the side of a mountain hillock that can be seen only with binoculars or a telescope.
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| " Camel Back Mountain "etched like a stone mural on the face of this hill and with Telescopic sights the shape of a camel can be seen along the face of a ledge on this mountain. |
After viewing " Camel Back Mountain" walked a short distance ahead until I reached Mussoorie Public school and then walked back to Picture Library Mall Road.Had a early vegetarian lunch at " The Green Vegetarian Family Restaurant" consisting of " Chole Bhature/ Lassi" costing Rs 188 .In the afternoon ambient temp was approx 14* C ,pleasant and cool with bright hot sunshine.Walking the distance back from Mall Road Picture Palace to Mall Road Library came across landmark Central Methodist Church and according to my personal opinion Mussoorie Mall Picture Palace end is less posh in comparison to Library Chowk situated on West end of Mall Road.Cycle rickshaws are a popular mode of tourist transport on Mall Library road end but not on Mall Picture Palace road as the road at Picture Palace section has steep inclines and declines .Relaxed on a bench on Mall Road with Christ Church Anglican church on the hillock above. As a student of history I always make it a point to visit any historical edifice and hence decided to visit the " Savoy Hotel" situated on Library chowk.Although once upon a time I was a big shareholder in Indian Hotels( Taj Group of Hotels) , wining or dining in 5- star hotels is not my cup of tea as I find it hard to shake of my middle class roots upbringing and only occasionally visit a 5- star hotel or stay in one. In Singapore I visited the " Raffles Hotel" bar just to learn what all this fuss about " Singapore Sling" was about and honestly i was not disappointed. The " Savoy Hotel" Mussoorie was built in 1902, much before Bombay now Mumbai's iconic Taj Mahal hotel.
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| Picture Palace Road Market place. |
In 1911 a murder scandal concerning a wealthy English lady at the Savoy Hotel put this otherwise normal hotel into International headlines attracting the attention of Authoress Dame Agatha Christie and it is presumed her first murder novel published in 1920 " The Mysterious Affair at Styles" has some inspiration from the cyanide poisoning murder case at Savoy Hotel Mussoorie that was all over the British press.A sensational murder case of its era.After this murder case the Savoy hotel fell into disrepute and was considered haunted.During its history it has also changed owners due to financial troubles but somehow survived in its original form and now after some interior decor innovations ,a thriving famous hotel under its new owner Mr Kishore. Kaya and managed by the I.T.C Hotel Group . It was a long inclined uphill walk from Library Chowk to Savoy hotel.The entrance of the hotel has grandeur and history written all over it's edifice.Reminded me of the vintage Taj Mahal hotel of Mumbai.Inquired the way to " Writers Bar" and was amazed at the stag heads lining the walls of the interior of the hotel.All these stag heads were hunting trophies collected in the vicinity of Mussoorie when hunting was a privileged sport of the elite and wealthy.Entered the famous " Writers Bar" built in 1890, much earlier than the actual hotel as it was formerly a hunting lodge cum bar.A prime exhibit was a leopard skin exhibit and a pair of elephant tusks besides deer antlers.This leopard was shot by a hunter right inside the bar where it was found sleeping akin to a cat on a table.The Australia- India test match was being shown on the giant T.V screen.All 5- Star hotels look the same internally with over the top grandeur and decor but honestly " Writers Bar" had history written all over it ,besides , the normal 5- Star grandeur.
There was a plaque mentioning eminent Writers who visited this bar which included Mussoorie's own homegrown author Mr Ruskin.Bond.
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| Mussoorie Library Building at Library ChowkMussoorie's most prominent landmarks is this historical Raj-era library that opened way back in 1843. Its ornate Victoria-style balcony veranda features cast-iron lacework, and it continues to function today as a lending library. ( Gandhi Chowk). Hence the name " Library Chowk" due to this landmark building situated on West end of Mussoorie Mall Road . |
Bar executive Ms Shreshtha.Sah explained me briefly the history of " Writers Bar" also clicking a photo seated behing the plaque of prominent writers who visited this bar.
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| Mussoorie Gurudwara Sahib Trust at Library Chowk Mussoorie. Excellent viewpoint of Doon Valley and mountains from this point. |
After sipping my drink and cherishing the ambiance made my way out of this majestic hotel.Akin to yesterday walked downhill all the way from Library Chowk to " goSTOPS ".On arrival at my room it was a musical chair of guests arrival and departure with 2 new guests checking in , Miss Tripti.Sarda ,a I.T. and sports journalist and Mr Amrendra.Jah a I.T professional.Manager Miss Shagufta arranged for a bonfire at night and a large group of Veterinary doctors from Gujarat living in the hostel joined the bonfire gathering.Later the guest whom I thought had left in the morning arrived after a scooter sightseeing ride.Mr Satya from Bihar was doing his PhD in physics and this made me realize that present generation Indian backpackers are mostly young high income intellectual professional's enjoying precious leisure time.Total strangers become acquaintances at hostels and at times this acquaintance could blossom into lifelong companionships.
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| Ahoy! Start of scooter cruising of Mussoorie on this hired " Suzuki Access 125cc " scooter.Something different compared to bikes. " May the HORSE be with you " ! |
Monday(25/11/2024) Mussoorie:- In the morning at 0800 hrs had breakfast as usual at " Rawat Ji Fastfood " situated on the main highway above " goSTOPS " building.Told the cook Mr Mobul to arrange a scooter for me and he quickly rang up a contact and at 0845 hrs Mr Bijay arrived with a scooter and at a rental of Rs 500/ day hired the " Suzuki Access 125 cc " Scooter.My desinaination was Mt Lal Tiba , the highest peak in Mussoorie. Mr Bijay showed me the basic operation of the scooter as I have always ridden either motorcycles or cycles having only once ridden a " Honda wave" in 2020 when residing at " Nana Backpackers" hostel in Vang Vieng in Laos .Vang Vieng didnt have mountain roads but flat normal terrain.Here in Mussoorie I would be negotiating mountain terrain curved roads but having no choice decided to be my own guide and rider in Mussoorie. Thanking Bijay rode the scooter down the highway towards Picture Palace Road of Mussoorie. At the highway bifurcation filled 1.5 litres into the petrol tank.My worst nightmare would be running out of fuel and being stalled midway on a Mussoorie mountain road with no humans nor vehicles in sight.It was a curving highway drive to Picture Palace Road and on reaching the locale inquired directions for Landour. On reaching Landour Town came across the landmark " Landour Clock Tower ".As it was early morning there was less traffic and after some teething problems got confidence of riding the scooter up the steep incline along the narrow mountain road having a steep 60* inclined climb .
Ascending the mountain highway came across a highway diversion and asking a local the road to Lal Tiba was told to take the highway road ahead as this was a diversion road leading to Kellog Memorial Church.
One of my school classmates in standard XI and XII (1976-77)Late Mr T .R.Krishnan who succumbed to cancer at a young age of 51 years had done his schooling at " Woodstock School( Founded 1854)" situated in this vicinity of Landour and considered the most expensive boarding school in India.Saw the English play " Class of 84" ,a Mumbaicentric play directed by Mr Rahul Da Cunha and honestly i feel the makers of this play lifted a few inspirational scenes from " Christ Church School Class of 76-77".Memoirs of another era.Was finally at " Char Dukan" having heritage cafe's.
Landmark St Pauls Anglican church is situated next to " Char Dukaan".From " Char Dukaan" it was a steep ascent and finally at 0940 hrs reached Lal Tibba mountain peak viewpoint,the highest motorable peak of Mussorie.The actual highest point is a little above this mountain viewpoint which has the Mussoorie telivision tower on the peak.There was a horse with its handler for horse rides near the viewpoint and honestly instead of a scooter would have loved a slow horse ride to Lal Tibba.The viewing point for tourists is called " Lal Tibba Binoculars & Cafe". Entrance to this cafe was Rs 50 and a large Binocular is installed on top of the cafe for complimentary viewing of the Himalayas. To my goodluck it was a bright Sunny day and the atmosphere clear of mist or haze.Got a excellent view of the Garhwal mountains which has dense evergreen forest and in the distance the Himalayan Snow covered peaks .Ice formation on the mountain sides of the Himalayan peaks was less as peak winter was yet to arrive.Gangotri mountain peak was glistening in the Sun.The restaurant served snacks as it is not everyday a tourist gets to eat breakfast with a view of the Garhwal mountains and Himalayan peaks.Couples were busy posturing for photographs as also group tourists.From Lal Tibba viewpoint took the road heading in the opposite direction of the Cafe and to my surprise got caught in a traffic jam on the highest road in Mussoorie. A Hindi film shooting was scheduled in front of Kellog Memorial Church and the entire road was blocked by film equipment vehicles and the " Film Shooting crew".
On inquiry was told the film stars were yet to arrive on the sets and that they were not established film stars but newcomers.
The last film shooting I saw was in 2015 at Prague castle in Prague in Czechoslovakia based on a " World War - 2" documentary.With great skill managed to manouever my Scooter out of the film studio traffic and headed down the mountain road to " Char Dukaan".At 1140 hrs lunch was a " Chocolate pancake" snack at " Char Dukaan" restaurant costing Rs 370, something different and a speciality of this restaurant.After lunch made my steep mountain descent on the narrow mountain road hoping not to experience the similar traffic jam that I encountered in Nainital during the bus ride from Bhimtal to Nainital .May the horse be with you ! Thankfully, although there was tourist traffic the pace of vehicle movement was normal .Finally arrived into Landour Bazaar with its narrow badly maintained road.Passed alongside the Landour Clocktower at 1245 hrs which gives a beautiful view of the surrounding Garhwal mountains and the concentrated concrete jungle of Mussoorie Picture Palace locale.From Landour Clocktower after the downhill ride to Picture Palace took the highway road to Library Chowk.On reaching Library Chowk confirming directions took the familiar " Kempty Waterfalls " highway with my destination being " Company's Garden".Again as usual a mountain road but with no steep inclines and finally at 1320 hrs was at " Company Gardens" now named after former Indian Prime Minister Atal Bihari Vajpayee and called " Atal Gardens".
Entrance fee was Rs 50 and on entering the garden got a view of the kids entertainment which included a " Horror House" show and eatable restaurants as well as games.
Biggest exhibit in the garden was the " Wax Museum" and entered the same out of curiosity paying a entrance of Rs 100 but totally disappointed by the workmanship quality of the exhibits. I presume having viewed Madame Tussauds in London my expectations of quality was higher and hence these exhibits would be normal.The garden has a artificial Waterfall and a large plant garden and nursery. From the garden rode back straight to home away from home " goSTOPS".
You don't realize what you are capable of doing unless forced to do the same.I was thrilled of accomplishing a " Solo" Scooter ride to almost 7000 ft elevation by road on a scooter I had last ridden a scooter only once in my lifetime in 2020 and that too for a few hours in distant Laos and not India.Riding any vehicle is akin to swimming, once you learn you don't forget.Relaxed in the reception and manager Miss Shagufta recommended a local eatery near Cinema Palace on the road to Landour and decided to visit it tomorrow.
In the evening rode on the scooter to Library chowk and managed to find parking space outside Mussoorie Library building.Entire Mall Road of Mussoorie was packed with tourists and locals with traffic congestion a nightmare although 2- wheelers are not allowed on the Mall.Dinner was " Hyderabadi Biryani" at the cheapest Dhaba on the Mall next to Dr B
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| Landmark " Landour Clock Tower ".The Landour Clock Tower was established in the late 1930's by Ugra Sain Verma and built during the British Raj in India.In 2010 it was demolished and rebuilt due to a public demand by locals and prominent resident's of Landour, writer Ruskin .Bond and actor Tom Alter .This new clock tower which shows accurate time was inaugurated in 2016.The Landour Clock Tower in Mussoorie was always used as a display name on the Road signs of Mussoorie, the locals use it as a landmark and it still continues to be point of reference for the people of the hills. |
Ascending the mountain highway came across a highway diversion and asking a local the road to Lal Tiba was told to take the highway road ahead as this was a diversion road leading to Kellog Memorial Church.
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| " CHAR DUKAAN " at Landour on the way to Lal Tiba. |
One of my school classmates in standard XI and XII (1976-77)Late Mr T .R.Krishnan who succumbed to cancer at a young age of 51 years had done his schooling at " Woodstock School( Founded 1854)" situated in this vicinity of Landour and considered the most expensive boarding school in India.Saw the English play " Class of 84" ,a Mumbaicentric play directed by Mr Rahul Da Cunha and honestly i feel the makers of this play lifted a few inspirational scenes from " Christ Church School Class of 76-77".Memoirs of another era.Was finally at " Char Dukan" having heritage cafe's.
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| At Lal Tibba observation point .Horse rides for tourists. " Lal Tibba Binocular and Cafe" restaurant is the main tourist observation point. |
Landmark St Pauls Anglican church is situated next to " Char Dukaan".From " Char Dukaan" it was a steep ascent and finally at 0940 hrs reached Lal Tibba mountain peak viewpoint,the highest motorable peak of Mussorie.The actual highest point is a little above this mountain viewpoint which has the Mussoorie telivision tower on the peak.There was a horse with its handler for horse rides near the viewpoint and honestly instead of a scooter would have loved a slow horse ride to Lal Tibba.The viewing point for tourists is called " Lal Tibba Binoculars & Cafe". Entrance to this cafe was Rs 50 and a large Binocular is installed on top of the cafe for complimentary viewing of the Himalayas. To my goodluck it was a bright Sunny day and the atmosphere clear of mist or haze.Got a excellent view of the Garhwal mountains which has dense evergreen forest and in the distance the Himalayan Snow covered peaks .Ice formation on the mountain sides of the Himalayan peaks was less as peak winter was yet to arrive.Gangotri mountain peak was glistening in the Sun.The restaurant served snacks as it is not everyday a tourist gets to eat breakfast with a view of the Garhwal mountains and Himalayan peaks.Couples were busy posturing for photographs as also group tourists.From Lal Tibba viewpoint took the road heading in the opposite direction of the Cafe and to my surprise got caught in a traffic jam on the highest road in Mussoorie. A Hindi film shooting was scheduled in front of Kellog Memorial Church and the entire road was blocked by film equipment vehicles and the " Film Shooting crew".
On inquiry was told the film stars were yet to arrive on the sets and that they were not established film stars but newcomers.
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| Kellog Memorial Church near Lal Tibba in Landour. |
The last film shooting I saw was in 2015 at Prague castle in Prague in Czechoslovakia based on a " World War - 2" documentary.With great skill managed to manouever my Scooter out of the film studio traffic and headed down the mountain road to " Char Dukaan".At 1140 hrs lunch was a " Chocolate pancake" snack at " Char Dukaan" restaurant costing Rs 370, something different and a speciality of this restaurant.After lunch made my steep mountain descent on the narrow mountain road hoping not to experience the similar traffic jam that I encountered in Nainital during the bus ride from Bhimtal to Nainital .May the horse be with you ! Thankfully, although there was tourist traffic the pace of vehicle movement was normal .Finally arrived into Landour Bazaar with its narrow badly maintained road.Passed alongside the Landour Clocktower at 1245 hrs which gives a beautiful view of the surrounding Garhwal mountains and the concentrated concrete jungle of Mussoorie Picture Palace locale.From Landour Clocktower after the downhill ride to Picture Palace took the highway road to Library Chowk.On reaching Library Chowk confirming directions took the familiar " Kempty Waterfalls " highway with my destination being " Company's Garden".Again as usual a mountain road but with no steep inclines and finally at 1320 hrs was at " Company Gardens" now named after former Indian Prime Minister Atal Bihari Vajpayee and called " Atal Gardens".
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| Atal Bihari Vajpayee Gardens ( Company Gardens) in Mussoorie.Company Garden is a colourful garden located 3 km from The Mall. Also known as "Municipal Garden" or "Company Bagh" by locals , it is visited by number of tourists round the year. Company Garden has a variety of beautiful flowers and an amusement park as also a "House of wax".There is a artificial waterfalls and entertainment for kids. |
Entrance fee was Rs 50 and on entering the garden got a view of the kids entertainment which included a " Horror House" show and eatable restaurants as well as games.
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| In " House of Wax" in Atal Bihari Vajpayee gardens ( Company Gardens). |
Biggest exhibit in the garden was the " Wax Museum" and entered the same out of curiosity paying a entrance of Rs 100 but totally disappointed by the workmanship quality of the exhibits. I presume having viewed Madame Tussauds in London my expectations of quality was higher and hence these exhibits would be normal.The garden has a artificial Waterfall and a large plant garden and nursery. From the garden rode back straight to home away from home " goSTOPS".
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| CYCLE AUTORICKSHAW'S, plying on Mussoorie Mall Road. The unique charm of Mussoorie |
You don't realize what you are capable of doing unless forced to do the same.I was thrilled of accomplishing a " Solo" Scooter ride to almost 7000 ft elevation by road on a scooter I had last ridden a scooter only once in my lifetime in 2020 and that too for a few hours in distant Laos and not India.Riding any vehicle is akin to swimming, once you learn you don't forget.Relaxed in the reception and manager Miss Shagufta recommended a local eatery near Cinema Palace on the road to Landour and decided to visit it tomorrow.
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| Classic cheap Biryani on Mall Road. |
In the evening rode on the scooter to Library chowk and managed to find parking space outside Mussoorie Library building.Entire Mall Road of Mussoorie was packed with tourists and locals with traffic congestion a nightmare although 2- wheelers are not allowed on the Mall.Dinner was " Hyderabadi Biryani" at the cheapest Dhaba on the Mall next to Dr B
R.Ambedkar statue called " Biryani Bites", excellent for the price of only Rs 160.As a traveller I always taste the costliest and cheapest popular food in any city or Country that I visit.After dinner mounted my Scooter and rode back to home away from home in the dark.
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| Tibetan mastiff breed dog named " Badal" with its proud owner Mr Ankur Bisht standing behind us " MODELS". This photo was clicked at " Rawat Ji Fastfood " with Doon Valley in the background. |
Tuesday (26/11/2024) Mussoorie:- Night temp was stable at 4* C and did get my average 4 hrs sleep.At 0800 hrs rode my Scooter up the steep inclined slope from " goSTOPS " parking to " Rawat ji fastood" ,my breakfast corner.After breakfast drove down Library road to the petrol pump and refueled the scooter.From there a straight dive past Library chowk onto the road leading to George Everest House.A long and winding uphill and downhill road and somehow asking directions finally landed at the parking lot of " George Everest House".At 0830 hrs I was one of the few lone tourists at the ticket booking counter .Was told that after booking the ticket it was a 2 Km uphill trek to the summit of George Everest House .Akin to a marathon athlete had to space my limited energy and decided to avoid the uphill trek and hence after a few pictures rode back and decided to ride to " Clouds End" .Clouds End is the geographical end of Mussoorie and considered a scenic locale.Asking directions enjoyed the ride through rough mountain roads but since I was alone with very few movement of vehicles or humans on the rough mountain road returned back mid-way and stopped my scooter outside " Leopard Lodge Eco- Park Mussoorie " and " Mussoorie Adventure Park" on Hathi Paon Hill which had facilities for extreme adventure sports.At this locale i was 10 Kms away from Library Chowk Mussoorie and realized I had ridden a long distance on rough terrain and now had to cover another 10 kms back to Mussoorie Town.
The snow capped Himalayas could be partially seen from this hill viewpoint.It was a bright clear day and the view was excellent. One of the employees of the resort showed me the Tibetan Buddhist Monastery on Dalai hill facing the resort.Rode towards Happy Valley, site of the Tibetan settlement but unable to guage the distance and thoughful that a unfortunate scooter breakdown like a simple puncture or some horrible road accident could leave me high and dry on a Garhwal mountain decided to retreat back to Mussoorie Library Chowk . Hence just observed the Monastery from the distance with my binoculars and made my long ride back towards Library Chowk.On the way gave a lift to a local who got down after some travel and later to a young student who alighted at a traffic jam just before entering Library Chowk.Traffic entering and exiting Mussoorie Library road is a nightmare for 4- wheelers as 2- wheelers can somehow squeeze through narrow gaps.Advantages of riding a 2- wheeler.Relaxed in my hostel room and met new guest Mr Raghav.Gupta from Delhi, a young advocate cum businessman by profession who had driven from Delhi in his plush customized Honda car.I.T professional Mr Amrendra.Jah had left the hostel and as usual the hostel was busy with arrival and departure of young backpackers.In the afternoon decided to ride down to Mussoorie lake.Mussoorie lake is 6 Kms from Gandhi Chowk(Library Chowk) situated next to Dhobi Ghat on the Dehradun- Mussoorie highway.Loved riding on the highway which was excellent in comparison to the rough nooks and corners of mountain roads I have ridden in Mussoorie.
Was finally at Mussoorie lake and after parking my Scooter with parking charges being Rs 30 purchased the Rs 30 entrance ticket to the lake.It was again a tedious downhill walk from the parking lot to the tiny lake which resembled a large swimming pool.Mussorie lake is a artificial lake but is replenished by natural a Waterfall flowing down from the mountain.The lake is built like a dam with excess water overflowing from the lake into the mountains below.There is also a adventure park at the lake .Paddle boating and Zorbing was conducted on the lake and there were food stalls and games for children.In fact Mussoorie lake itself was for children and couples ,too small a lake and too artificial.The adventure sports like Ziplining and swings was for adrenaline junkies.Lunch was " Chole puri/ Lassi" costing Rs 180 ,excellent and cheap.After lunch walked up the hill stairs to the entrance/ exit.Began my uphill mountain ride and on the way gave a lift upto the hostel to a young lady student.Except for a certain section of Mussoorie Mall Road from Library Chowk to Gunhill cable car Terminal which is flat almost entire Mussoorie roads are either ascending or descending mountain highway roads.In the afternoon after 1400 hrs the visibility turns hazy although the sunshine is bright .Later in the evening on the guidiance of " goSTOPS " manager Miss Shagufta. Siddique decided to visit a famous vegetarian eatery at Landour.
After riding non - stop on my hired scooter with great confidence took Miss Shagufta Siddique on a pillion ride along the highway all the way to Picture Cinema end of Mall Road. From there it was a short ride through horrible crater roads to " Hapor Walo Ki Dukaan ".Most importantly I was happy that young Miss Shagufta. Siddique trusted me for safe pillion riding over a treacherous trek knowing I was new to this highway as well as not a regular scooter rider.Akin to betting on a outsider horse to win the race.
Situated near Landour Bazaar on a narrow crowded road this restaurant has been in existence since 1947 serving local Gharwal cuisine.
The decor of this restaurant was unique ,absolute rural hill culture decor.The owner Mr Pankaj. Agarwal himself attends to the guests and at 1930 hrs we were the only two diners.Absolutely talkative Mr Pankaj Agarwal explained us the preparation of different vegetarian cuisine and later we were served the largest " Vegetarian Thali" I have seen in my lifetime.One thali contained only sweet dishes and the large main thali a assortment of different vegetable preparations.Shagufta was a vegetarian and a poor eater and somehow i managed to eat most of the food although much was wasted and the sweets was parceled.Expensive ,costing Rs 800 for the thali but then this was no ordinary vegetarian thali and actually meant for 3 or even 4 people at a sitting.As taxi and hired scooters are not allowed on Mussoorie Mall Road had parked my Scooter just before the vehicle barricade on Mall Road Picture Cinema end.We both walked along Mall Road and after a while Journalist backpacker Miss Tripti. Sarda joined us and later both women got down to shopping for shoes and purchasing boots .Later Tripti had dinner at a Tibetan restaurant where we 3 whiled away our time with me amazed that Miss Tripti.Sarda was into American N.F.L journalism.A young lady living in India lecturing to the Americans from a country where the sport of Cricket is akin to a religion while the American sport of " American Football" of the " NFL" is almost non existent in India .Internet has broken geographical boundaries as well as geographical sports journalism .Travel educates.At 2145 hrs we made our exit and presuming the road would be open for 2- wheeler after 2200 hrs decided to fetch my Scooter while the two young ladies waited my arrival.To my disbelief was told hired and taxi 2- wheelers are permanently not allowed entry into Mussoorie Mall Road.As I couldn't ring up either Shagufta or Tripti about my situation decided to ride Solo back from Picture Cinema road highway to " goSTOPS ".
It was one of my most dangerous and strenuous rides as I was not familiar to the terrain nor direction although now almost a expert on a scooter , very similar to riding a cycle.Finally reached " goSTOPS " and told the reception to immediately ring up Shagufta about my condition and arrival at " goSTOPS ". Shagufta and Tripti walked along the mall to " goSTOPS" .Alls well that ends well.
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| At the base of the mountain hill of " George Everest House ". From this point it is a 2 Km uphill trek to the summit of GEORGE EVEREST HOUSE. |
The snow capped Himalayas could be partially seen from this hill viewpoint.It was a bright clear day and the view was excellent. One of the employees of the resort showed me the Tibetan Buddhist Monastery on Dalai hill facing the resort.Rode towards Happy Valley, site of the Tibetan settlement but unable to guage the distance and thoughful that a unfortunate scooter breakdown like a simple puncture or some horrible road accident could leave me high and dry on a Garhwal mountain decided to retreat back to Mussoorie Library Chowk . Hence just observed the Monastery from the distance with my binoculars and made my long ride back towards Library Chowk.On the way gave a lift to a local who got down after some travel and later to a young student who alighted at a traffic jam just before entering Library Chowk.Traffic entering and exiting Mussoorie Library road is a nightmare for 4- wheelers as 2- wheelers can somehow squeeze through narrow gaps.Advantages of riding a 2- wheeler.Relaxed in my hostel room and met new guest Mr Raghav.Gupta from Delhi, a young advocate cum businessman by profession who had driven from Delhi in his plush customized Honda car.I.T professional Mr Amrendra.Jah had left the hostel and as usual the hostel was busy with arrival and departure of young backpackers.In the afternoon decided to ride down to Mussoorie lake.Mussoorie lake is 6 Kms from Gandhi Chowk(Library Chowk) situated next to Dhobi Ghat on the Dehradun- Mussoorie highway.Loved riding on the highway which was excellent in comparison to the rough nooks and corners of mountain roads I have ridden in Mussoorie.
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| At Mussoorie Lake situated 6Km from Mussorie Library Chowk on the Mussoorie- Dehradun Highway. |
Was finally at Mussoorie lake and after parking my Scooter with parking charges being Rs 30 purchased the Rs 30 entrance ticket to the lake.It was again a tedious downhill walk from the parking lot to the tiny lake which resembled a large swimming pool.Mussorie lake is a artificial lake but is replenished by natural a Waterfall flowing down from the mountain.The lake is built like a dam with excess water overflowing from the lake into the mountains below.There is also a adventure park at the lake .Paddle boating and Zorbing was conducted on the lake and there were food stalls and games for children.In fact Mussoorie lake itself was for children and couples ,too small a lake and too artificial.The adventure sports like Ziplining and swings was for adrenaline junkies.Lunch was " Chole puri/ Lassi" costing Rs 180 ,excellent and cheap.After lunch walked up the hill stairs to the entrance/ exit.Began my uphill mountain ride and on the way gave a lift upto the hostel to a young lady student.Except for a certain section of Mussoorie Mall Road from Library Chowk to Gunhill cable car Terminal which is flat almost entire Mussoorie roads are either ascending or descending mountain highway roads.In the afternoon after 1400 hrs the visibility turns hazy although the sunshine is bright .Later in the evening on the guidiance of " goSTOPS " manager Miss Shagufta. Siddique decided to visit a famous vegetarian eatery at Landour.
After riding non - stop on my hired scooter with great confidence took Miss Shagufta Siddique on a pillion ride along the highway all the way to Picture Cinema end of Mall Road. From there it was a short ride through horrible crater roads to " Hapor Walo Ki Dukaan ".Most importantly I was happy that young Miss Shagufta. Siddique trusted me for safe pillion riding over a treacherous trek knowing I was new to this highway as well as not a regular scooter rider.Akin to betting on a outsider horse to win the race.
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| " Hapor Walo Ki Dukaan " :- Serving authentic Pahadi( mountain) vegetarian cuisine since 1947.In the present third generation this distinctly different tiny restaurant is run by Mr Pankaj.Agarwal who personally attended us akin to V.I.P diners and explained us the preparation of the dishes as well as the names of various vegetables served in thali's. As you see there are 3 different thali's( Plates) with 1 thali having only sweet dishes.The smaller thali has roti's. As for me this was the largest " FOOD THALI" Vegetarian or non- vegetarian that i had seen and eaten from in my life.This thali is meant for a minimum of 2 people or still better 3 in order to finish all that is served.Travel educates.If visiting Mussoorie and even if a hard core non' vegetarian like yours truly make a visit to " Hapor Walo Ki Dukaan " a mandatory point on your sightseeing list of Mussoorie. Cost of this sumptuous thali is Rs 800. |
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| " goSTOPS " Library road Manager Miss Shagufta. Siddique and self at " Hapor Walo Ki Dukaan ".We both were amazed seeing the quantity of food served on the thali's. |
The decor of this restaurant was unique ,absolute rural hill culture decor.The owner Mr Pankaj. Agarwal himself attends to the guests and at 1930 hrs we were the only two diners.Absolutely talkative Mr Pankaj Agarwal explained us the preparation of different vegetarian cuisine and later we were served the largest " Vegetarian Thali" I have seen in my lifetime.One thali contained only sweet dishes and the large main thali a assortment of different vegetable preparations.Shagufta was a vegetarian and a poor eater and somehow i managed to eat most of the food although much was wasted and the sweets was parceled.Expensive ,costing Rs 800 for the thali but then this was no ordinary vegetarian thali and actually meant for 3 or even 4 people at a sitting.As taxi and hired scooters are not allowed on Mussoorie Mall Road had parked my Scooter just before the vehicle barricade on Mall Road Picture Cinema end.We both walked along Mall Road and after a while Journalist backpacker Miss Tripti. Sarda joined us and later both women got down to shopping for shoes and purchasing boots .Later Tripti had dinner at a Tibetan restaurant where we 3 whiled away our time with me amazed that Miss Tripti.Sarda was into American N.F.L journalism.A young lady living in India lecturing to the Americans from a country where the sport of Cricket is akin to a religion while the American sport of " American Football" of the " NFL" is almost non existent in India .Internet has broken geographical boundaries as well as geographical sports journalism .Travel educates.At 2145 hrs we made our exit and presuming the road would be open for 2- wheeler after 2200 hrs decided to fetch my Scooter while the two young ladies waited my arrival.To my disbelief was told hired and taxi 2- wheelers are permanently not allowed entry into Mussoorie Mall Road.As I couldn't ring up either Shagufta or Tripti about my situation decided to ride Solo back from Picture Cinema road highway to " goSTOPS ".
It was one of my most dangerous and strenuous rides as I was not familiar to the terrain nor direction although now almost a expert on a scooter , very similar to riding a cycle.Finally reached " goSTOPS " and told the reception to immediately ring up Shagufta about my condition and arrival at " goSTOPS ". Shagufta and Tripti walked along the mall to " goSTOPS" .Alls well that ends well.
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| View of Shedup Choephelling Temple situated on the highest point on a cliff in Happy Valley of Mussoorie located 2.5 kilometers from the Library Bus Stand.This temple houses prayer wheels and innumerous idols of Lord Buddha. The meditation hall of the temple is carved with beautiful paintings on the walls, panels and on the ceiling. The temple provides a great panoramic view of the Benog Hill circuit.Around 5000 Tibetan refugees live in Happy Valley, also known as mini-Tibet. It is a popular tourist attraction in Mussoorie. When the 14th Dalai Lama took refuge in Mussoorie in 1959, many Tibetans came here, and this valley has been their home ever since.Later, the Tibetan government-in-exile relocated to Dharamshala in Himachal Pradesh, leaving behind a strong community of Tibetans who have today become an integral part of the local community. The Buddhist Temple and Tibetan Homes Foundation help to preserve Mussoorie’s beautiful Tibetan culture.In 1960, the Indian government established the Central School for Tibetans in Happy Valley for Tibetan children, which is still in operation today.Mahapandit Rahul Sankrityayan, who is also known as the father of Hindi travel literature, lived with his family for some years in the present Central School's dispensary building. |
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| View of Buddha Stupa atop Dalai Hill in Happy Valley as seen from " Leopard Lodge Eco ' Park on Hathi Paon Hill. |
Wednesday(27/11/2024)Mussoorie:- After normal routines as usual tea/ omelette was at the now regular adda " Rawat ji Fast food" which is crowded in the morning with school and college students.Came across a local Mr Ankur Bisht who owned a beautiful mixed breed Tibetan mastiff breed dog named " Badal" who was known and loved by all the customers at " Rawat Ji Fastfood". Numerous large well fed stray dogs in Mussoorie which resemble the Tibetan mastiff breed but couldnt spot a single stay cat.Later met Mr Bijay from whom I had rented the scooter and paid him the rental money.After breakfast rode down Library road / Dehradun highway to the petrol pump and refilled petrol.From the petrol pump drove all the way to Gandhi Chowk( Library Chowk) past Library Bazaar onto the Kempty Falls Highway.I was now familiar with this route and riding down the mountain highway there was a diversion with one road leading to Kempty Falls and the other to Shedup Choephelling Temple situated on a cliff in Happy Valley.Took the Buddha Temple road, a mountainious road with ups and downs and finally reached Mussoorie Happy Valley, the sight of the Tibetan settlement in Mussorie. Parked my Scooter at the side of the road leading to the Shedup Choephelling Temple .There was a Hindi film shooting going inside the temple premises and hence tourists not allowed.
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| On Dalai Hill at Buddha Stupa. |
Decided to walk up Dalai hill and view the Buddha statue installed at the top as well as view the mountain scenery.Walking up the hillock which had some houses alongside the hill stopped for some rest when I suddenly spotted a cat looking at my face from a hedge that formed a fence alongside the stairs.Peeped over the hedge and to my amazement spotted a jet black cat tied like a dog with a rope.My first cat sighting in Mussoorie and a real beautiful specimen.Finally reached the summit of Dalai hill which has a statue of Buddha and Tibetan prayer flags.The view of the surrounding Garhwal mountains was fabulous but due to the haze the view of the Himalayan mountain range was not clear..Spotted a lone Himalayan Griffon vulture flying all alone high up in the sky above the mountains.There were numerous tourists busy clicking photographs.Returning down from Dalai hill had a peep over the hedge and to my disbelief the leashed black cat had a brown colour female companion along with a kitten.Buzzare having not spotted a single cat in Mussoorie unexpectedly came across a domesticated cat family.The film shooting at the Shedup Choephelling Temple premises had finished and tourists could now enter the temple compound.
After viewing the temple and temple complex rode back to Gandhi Chowk( Library Chowk) and after parking my Scooter in front of Mussoorie Library building walked the short distance to Library Bazaar .
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| Tibetan prayer flags fluttering along Dalai Hill. |
Lunch was " Butter Chicken/ rice" at " Snow View Restaurant" costing Rs 290 and after lunch on arriving at the parking bay was surprised to find my Scooter chained with other scooters as it seems we had all parked in a non- parking Zone.Finally after pleading all the bikes were released and Mussoorie really does have a major traffic congestion problem on Mussoorie Mall .Relieved, rode to home away from home " goSTOPS " and relaxed.Afternoons are bright and sunny but Sunset brings in the minimum cold temps.In the evening rode to Gandhi Chowk ( Library Chowk) and parked my Scooter at the same spot as in the morning.
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| Shopping arcade on edge of hill on Mussoorie Mall Road. Indescribable ambiance. |
Took a gamble of not being struck by lightning the second time and strolled in the vicinity of Gandhi chowk.Entered " Jeet Restaurant " and tasted Garhwal sweet " Akhroj ka Halwa ".Excellent .Walked along Mussoorie Mall road and purchased a takeaway of " Moradabad Biryani" from adda " Biryani Bites".Walked back to my Scooter relieved it was not chained and rode back to home away from home " goSTOPS " Hostel.My last night in Mussoorie and relaxed having a early dinner on the lawn offering a indescribable view of Doon Valkey( Dehradun city" and Mussoorie 's Garhwal mountains. May the horse be with you." Brownie" the hostels pet dog was besides me happy to relish the leftovers.This is what I love about dogs. Their loyalty to us human is immense if just fed leftover food let alone normal food.It was chill cold outside and after dinner got back to the confines of " Room No 205 ".As usual large number of arrival and departures among guests.Night temp was 4*c." goSTOPS " Hostel is perched 6000 ft on the edge of the mountain on the Dehradun-Mussoorie Library road highway.
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| Central Methodist Church on Mussoorie Mall Road. Built in 1885.This chapel is open only on Sunday. |
Thursday (28/11/2024)Departure Mussoorie to Mumbai :- At 0615 hrs requested "goSTOPS " reception staff Mr Suraj Lall to drop me at Mussoorie Library bus stand to board the bus to Dehradun.He dropped me at the bus and was at the right place at the right time with the bus immediately departing for Mussorie. Ticket cost was Rs 80 and there were no traffic jams early morning and reached Dehradun bus terminus at 0740 hrs,approximately one hour ten minutes travel time from Mussorie. In Dehradun the morning temperature was 14*c.In just one hour of descent from 6000ft a rapid increase in ambient temperatures. Alighting at the Mussoorie bus stand had a breakfast consisting of samosa/ tea / Lassi. Inquiring about the bus stand to Haridwar was told that the buses to Haridwar could be boarded at the ISBT Haridwar Bypass road which was 5 kms away from Dehradun train station.Luck was in my favour and boarded a " No 5" shared autorickshaw near the station.It was a long road trip in heavy congested traffic and a young man guided me on alighting at the right stop .At ISBT By Pass road a bus to Haridwar was about to depart and boarded the same with the bus ticket costing Rs 120.At 1040 hrs was at Haridwar bus terminus, unbelievingly very early as I had expected traffic jams and hence left Mussoorie early morning.Kept my trolley bag in the railway station cloak room at a rental of Rs 30/ bag wondering how to while away my time till departure of my train at 1720 hrs.
I had travelled across the religious tourist sites of Haridwar during my visit to Rishikesh and Valley of Flowers in 2022 .
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| Mussoorie Picture Palace Road at night with its restaurants and hotels. If you want to listen to " LIVE" music then visit one of these hotels or restaurants on this road. |
Strolling along the station road spotted " Chitra Theatre", one of the oldest theatres in Haridwar situated on the opposite road facing the railway station." Singham Again" just released in November was playing at the theatre and decided to while away my time watching the 1230 show of a latest release movie in a theatre belonging to a almost extinct genre of single screen movie theatre's.The balcony ticket which was the costliest cost only Rs 100 and to my utter amazement realized I was the lone viewer in the entire balcony seating.Felt I had booked the entire balcony for my own private viewing.A top starcast movie with extreme violence and with a religious social message. Based on the Ramayana. The seats were excellent and I wonder how long this single screen " Chitra" theatre would be in existence if it manages to sell just one ticket for the balcony seating for a newly released film featuring top artists of the present generation.Travel educates.Afternoon ambient temp in Haridwar was 23*c and hence in less than 7 hrs just travelling by road i had experienced variations of temp from 4*C to 23* C. Incredible India.Lunch was " Vegetable Biryani" with 2 Lassi glasses at " Chaman Vaishno Bhojnalya" opposite the station, excellent food and the " Chameleon" changed colours from hard core non- vegetarian to hard core vegetarian.As a " Solo Traveller " adjustments to situations and circumstances is of prime importance to enjoy your travel and expolration of new locales,city's or Country's. .Last time I was in Haridwar had purchased Haridwar speciality sweets from " Mohan's",a household name in the locality and repeated the same.Walked to the railway station,collected my trolley bag and boarded " S4" compartment onto S4 seat of " 22918/ Haridwar Bandra Terminus SF Exp" on platform No 3 .
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| End of the tour in Haridwar. Watched " Singham Again " at Chitra Theatre in Haridwar before boarding the train to Mumbai. |
Train departure was punctual at 1720 hrs. A nightmare of a train journey with the train packed with illegal general class ticket holders. A young well dressed Hindu lady employed in the Bhojpuri film industry and at present in a DD1 telivision Hindi serial titled " Nurse " was sleeping on the floor in our sleeper compartment blocking the passage.Was this a Bhojpuri film shoot with a well dressed young lady playing the role of a homeless woman ? In the morning this same lady could pass off for a executive lady complete with her smartphone and a expensive Apple blue tooth hearing aid.But then haven't household name actors claimed they slept in railway stations during their struggling years in the Hindi film Industry.Although this lady didn't have the striking personality of a film heroine she could definitely strive as a character artist. Looks can be deceptive and this happens only in India ! The passenger's sleeping in the berths next to me were a complete Muslim family with kids and tons of luggage.A congested cosmopolitan passenger train travel . Similarly access to toilets was blocked by non- reservation squatters,toilets dirty and one of my worst second class sleeper train journey in India having travelled the length and breadth of India by both ,2nd and 1st class train passage.No wonder majority of upper income train travellers and those from lower income wanting travel comfort always travel by " A/ C First class".In the train A/C travel compartments there are no illegal general class ticket squatters. As for me its a part of " Solo Backpacker" adventure travel.Luckily at least the sleeper Berth was mine and somehow must have accomplished approx 2 hrs sleep.On this train journey I got a practical experience of " Slum Tourism" as our compartment was akin to a slum.A elderly Muslim traveller from Delhi was visiting Mumbai for the first time for the lavish wedding of a I.A.S officer and as the train approached suburbs of Mumbai was busy asking me the locations also saying Delhi has the best street food in India.Travel educates.Train was punctual on time and entered Bandra Terminus at 1700 hrs.First boarded a autorickshaw to the taxi stand and from taxi stand hired a taxi to Old Prabhadevi road , the total autorickshaw and taxi fare amounting to Rs 300.At last at home after travelling across a few home away from homes .Except for the horrible return train journey got the feeling I had returned from some European locale and not my own home country of India.Incredible India having the World's entire geographical diversity within a single geographical boundary.
